Lionclaw

Lionclaw

Well Known Member
I wasn't planning on buying an engine anytime soon, but one popped up for what seems to be a good price and I bit.

It's a 320-h2ad recently removed from a 172N. The engine has 2200 hours on it and was last given a zero-time overhaul by lycoming in 96. I'll be picking it up sometime this weekend, so I don't have access to it quite yet.

The plan is to eventually disassemble it and send parts out for overhaul, and reassemble it myself, hopefully with help.

Being that I'm a total engine noob, I have lots and lots of questions, and I'm certain there are questions I don't even know to ask yet!

I did do some research before I purchased it. As far as I know, it has the following issues:
  • Requires a special h2ad d1 mount from Vans
  • The fuel pump will require a small bump/mod to the cowl
  • Possible cam issues requiring special oil or oil additive
  • Bendix dual mag setup

Anyone want to add anything?

Now my questions (more to come later):
  • I want to go with a lightspeed ignition setup and one mag. Do I leave the bendix or can i get a single slick mag or something else? P-Mag?
  • Where can I find manuals for parts/overhaul for the 76 series engines?
  • What exactly is the T-Mod? I see that ECI will perform it for $120.
  • If I plan to let the engine sit for a while, should I do anything to it?

I appreciate everyone's help! This stuff is all a bit overwhelming at this point.
 
H2AD

Andy, I'm about a year ahead of you. Including the H2AD part!

T-mod = lifters with larger diameter, more face area. If your serial number has a -76T at the end, the mod is already done. No roller lifter mod kits are available anymore, there was one out of Canada for a while but at $5000 it hurt.

Oil additive: H2AD required lyc oil additive if using straight mineral oil, or oils without the additive already in them. Some of the shell multi vis oils already have the additive. Plan on replacing the cam and lifters. Cheap insurance. $796 if you shop around, new.

The 3000 series dual mag can be replaced by a single common 1200 series bendix or clone/slick mag.Correct rotation must be watched, but that's it. Objective reality is that the dual mag is no more or less reliable than two singles. Generally the dual is said to run cooler, and all mags need the 500 inspection. I'm sticking with it for now.

Cowl bump yes, if using a mech fuel pump. Many H2 users use dual electric pumps. I'm using the mech. Oil fill door need to be relocated too. Special mount is no cost, but get it. Also, it's common to step up to the O-360 oil cooler, as the oil flow to the heads is much higher, a lot of extra head heat going into the oil.

Vetterman's exhaust also does a special mod for the H2 pipes, no big deal, they just need to know.

Crank, rods, case, cylinders are all specific to the H2.

Call Lycoming and get the full set of 4-cyl data. $300 for the first year. You NEED TO HAVE ALL THE BEST AND CURRENT DATA.

When I got mine, I disassembled and sent out all the OH parts for whatever was required for certification. I plan on going with new Lyc cylinders, and new stuff as required by Lyc. Be careful, the superior website has a list of parts for mandatory replacement that is a little creative, for instance, the oil pump housing and gears do not need to be replaced - it actually DOESN'T fit the requirement - only 2-piece housings do, and the H2 never had one of those. Items on the list include lifters, rockers, rocker fulcrums. Bearings of course. Other stuff, but pretty much the same as any other 320.

I will be at $16000 fully OH, All Accy's OH by class-A shops, new alt and starter, to fully certifiable levels, no shortcuts. That's including $3500 for a 2058TT core.

Be aware it's fixed pitch only. The machining to accommodate the C/S governor was not done on the -320H2 cases.

I can send you more info, but searching the archives will get you most of it.

Rick 90432, emp and SB wings done, working QB fuse, predicting fall of 2009.
 
Rick - thanks for posting this good info. I'm beginning to look for an engine now and am considering the H2AD because it is a bit cheaper / more available. I'm trying to figure out the costs of a home garage overhaual (with help of 2 local A&P and an IA) vs. having an engine built and test run. I'm really into an hour or 2 on a test cell and I think that might sway the balance for me. But, I'm very mechanical / good with engines and would really enjoy building one up.

I'll send you a PM too.

Thanks again for posting the $$ info,

dave
 
H2AD

I have been very happy with the performance and costs on mine! However, if you have the cash, you might get a better resell later if you get a more common engine. There are enough used ones available that you could skip the overhaul and simply keep a spare mid-time engine on hand. Do a search on my previous postings to get baffle/cowl pix.
 
Thanks for the writeup Rick, lots of great info.

Vern, I found some of your posts on the subject and they're quite informative. Did you paint the engine yourself? I like the blue. What kind/color paints are those?

Another question, which may sound dumb. I need to go pickup the engine about 200m away. How exactly should I transport it? Does anyone have approximate dimensions? It isn't crated or anything. I was planning on taking some ratcheting straps, a saw, some 2x4s, a cordless screw driver and some deck screws. That way I should be able to build some sort of cradle for it if necessary.
 
transport

I've seen a lot of engines transported 'cradled' in an old truck/pickup tire. Remove carb first!

Rick
 
I'd only suggest doing the math ahead of time (before you get knee deep into this)... then comparing the numbers to other options out there. There may be much more desirable options for same/less money. H2AD isn't the most wanted engine out there..
 
Transport

rjcthree said:
I've seen a lot of engines transported 'cradled' in an old truck/pickup tire. Remove carb first!

Rick
Click to expand...

I've moved engines on a truck tire, placed the engine upside down on tire.
Unmounted tire btw.
I didn't remove the carb.
Seems to me the tire and straps would be enough.
But you can never be too careful, expect the worst.
Good Luck
 
Engine is home safely! Big thanks to all those chiming in with info. I'm very happy. I ended up strapping it down on top of some foam insulation.

http://picasaweb.google.com/pilotandy/RV9AEngine

The serial number ends in 76T, so I take that to mean it has the T-mod already done. It came with mags, carb, alternator, and immaculate logs. It needs a starter, starter ring, and a fuel pump. The seller said one cylinder was fouling sparkplugs every 100 hours. He also said the cam and lifters were inspected at 1000 hours and were in perfect shape. One of the pushrods was damaged during removal, and 2 of the shrouds have dents. It's at 2200 hours now, had a lycoming zero time overhaul in 94, and had 1100 hours ttsn before that.

After the van rental, gas, lunch, and total engine price I'm out less than $2500.

There are some red wires going to small brass plugs on each cylinder. The end of the red wires goes to a 110V plug. Is this some kind of pre-heater?
 
h2ad spreadsheet

Andy, i just sent you (gmail address) my spreadsheet on my h2ad rebuild. In process, obviously.
Rick
 
Lionclaw said:
There are some red wires going to small brass plugs on each cylinder. The end of the red wires goes to a 110V plug. Is this some kind of pre-heater?
Click to expand...
I certainly hope so. Otherwise you'd better start looking for a very long extension cord.
 
Thanks Rick - reply sent.

Mel - Ok, couldn't think of anything else they would be. I didn't see them in the parts catalog.
 
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