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04-28-2013, 04:59 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Huntersviile, NC
Posts: 215
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Elevator Attach Bolts RV-6
Maybe you guys can help me out here. I was doing the preflight the other day on the -6 and found something quite startling. As I inspected the elevator to HS attachments, I found one bolt the didn't appear to have much thread showing, less than usual anyway. When I slipped my finger in there, I could easily move the bolt with little to no effort. I grabbed a few wrenches to tightened it up and it tightened with not much effort. Ended up finding two that were "loose", one had what's always been the same amount of thread showing.
My questions are these as I did not build the airplane:
1. How much thread should be showing?
2. After flying the airplane, it occurred to me that how did the bolt back out and why was I able to tighten it? Shouldn't there be cotter keys or some other locking mechanisms on the bolts to prevent this very thing from happening?
Thanks
__________________
Tom Clark
RV-6 Sold
F1 Rocket
Lake Norman Airpark - 14A
Last edited by Clarkie : 04-28-2013 at 05:02 PM.
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04-28-2013, 05:11 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarkie
Maybe you guys can help me out here. I was doing the preflight the other day on the -6 and found something quite startling. As I inspected the elevator to HS attachments, I found one bolt the didn't appear to have much thread showing, less than usual anyway. When I slipped my finger in there, I could easily move the bolt with little to no effort. I grabbed a few wrenches to tightened it up and it tightened with not much effort. Ended up finding two that were "loose", one had what's always been the same amount of thread showing.
My questions are these as I did not build the airplane:
1. How much thread should be showing?
2. After flying the airplane, it occurred to me that how did the bolt back out and why was I able to tighten it? Shouldn't there be cotter keys or some other locking mechanisms on the bolts to prevent this very thing from happening?
Thanks
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Plans call for a locknut on these hinge bolts, but no cotter pin. If these nuts had backed off, I would replace them; obviously the locking feature has been compromised. It'll only cost a couple bucks.
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04-28-2013, 05:15 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,077
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On my -4 all those bolts (elevators, ailerons, rudder, etc.) have metal lock nuts, always tight. Maybe something to consider..
__________________
Chris Smith
Maule M5-180C (Sold)
RV-6 O-360 CS (Sold)
RV-4 O-360 FP (Sold)
Full-time in the other type of RV....
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04-28-2013, 05:38 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 6,767
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BTW, you do not just "tighten them up". Use a torque wrench. Without one the tendency is to overtighten, depriving the fastener of some of its strength.
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04-28-2013, 06:33 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Huntersviile, NC
Posts: 215
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How do you get a torque wrench in that small slot? I barely had enough room to get two small wrenches in there.
__________________
Tom Clark
RV-6 Sold
F1 Rocket
Lake Norman Airpark - 14A
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04-28-2013, 06:47 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 1,024
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When to use a castle nut and cotter pin
FYI
A castle nut and cotter pin should be used any time the bolt will move or rotate in assembly. If the bolt can be torqued down against a bearing surface and the bolt does not rotate, as it is in your example, a fiber or metal lock nut should be used.
Good luck.
__________________
Steve Formhals
A&P, Tech Counselor & Flight Advisor
RV3B
RV8
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04-28-2013, 06:56 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,027
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It would be my guess that the bolts were never fully torqued when it was originally assembled. It is highly unlikely for a properly torqued fastener installed in joints like this to loosen.
I do not use a torque wrench on a difficult to access bolt like these, but I have a pretty good finger feel for what the correct torque value is.
Proper value is 20 - 25 inch pounds. This is much lower than most untrained people would guess. As already mentioned, the danger of you tightening them, if you don't have a good feel for the proper torque, is that you over did it and damaged the bolt (which can be undetectable visually). The yield point of an AN3 bolt is ~60 inch pounds. Almost 3 times the normal torque, but still not very high.
The thread exposure rule of thumb for AN365 nuts (the ones called out in the plans) is at least 1 thread, but no more than 3 threads visible. This rule of thumb does not work with all nuts, so you would need to determine which ones are installed.
__________________
Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.
Scott McDaniels
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop Manager
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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04-28-2013, 08:43 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 6,767
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To torque, use your wrench as a "crow's foot"; put a nut-bolt combination in the free end, and your torque wrench on that. You will need to calculate the torque wrench setting to get 25"-lbs at the nut.
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04-28-2013, 09:10 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: DVT Phoenix
Posts: 1,187
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It is probably best not to panic. RVBuilder is most likely correct, as his usually is :-). Some one just got side tracked and did not tighten them. It happens!!!! Larry
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04-28-2013, 09:25 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Huntersviile, NC
Posts: 215
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Thank you all. I think we'll change the bolts and nuts just to be safe.
__________________
Tom Clark
RV-6 Sold
F1 Rocket
Lake Norman Airpark - 14A
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