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  #31  
Old 04-25-2013, 12:21 PM
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rleffler rleffler is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rotoiti View Post
I got this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Rem...dp/B00005QWYF/
When the lid is locked shut the rivets cannot move between compartments -- tested . Each of the compartments is removable so I can pick it up and move to the work area while locking the lid safely so that others don't spill.
Murphy's Law states that you will knock it off your bench when the lid isn't latched. After the second time, I switched to standard parts drawers from Lowes. By the time I was done I had four bins and really needed a fifth.

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  #32  
Old 04-25-2013, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rleffler View Post
Murphy's Law states that you will knock it off your bench when the lid isn't latched.
Bob,

That's why you don't take the whole thing to the bench; only the items you need. The Stanley Organizers have removable containers, so it works similar to what you have now.
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  #33  
Old 04-25-2013, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rleffler View Post
Murphy's Law states that you will knock it off your bench when the lid isn't latched. ...
I make it a point to not walk away from mine with the lid unlatched. So far so good. I use Home Depot Model # 17185073 Hardware Organizers. One was sufficient for all the empennage hardware, as shown in the photo below. I now have one for rivets, one for hardware, one for plumbing fittings, and one for small miscellaneous parts. All organized alphabetically by part number regardless of which kit or bag they came out of (except for AN426-3-3.5 rivets - there are so many of those, they go in a large bin in the bottom). The curved bottoms in the bins make it easy to grab small parts.




On my first project I organized in plastic drawers by bag number. What a disaster! The plans and instructions make no reference to bag numbers, and I never could keep up with the part # vs. Bag # index I had to make.
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  #34  
Old 04-25-2013, 01:21 PM
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Auburntsts Auburntsts is offline
 
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I went cheap and low tech. I just kept everything in the little paper or plastic bags they came in. I organized them numerically by the lable on the bag and placed them in rows in cardboard trays that 4-six packs of soda come in (at COSTCOs or BJs etc). I placed the inventory sheet with the tray and would look up whatever I needed and just worked right out of the bag, purtting it back in the tray when I was done.

Truth in lending -- I do have one organizer box similar to the ones like Bob posted that I put bench stock items that I've picked up here and there (primarily from ACS as I bought one of their fastener assortments).

Specking of organization, put your tools back where they belong when you're done. I'm the worst at leaving where I was last working and I can't tell you how much time I've spent simply looking for the odd tool because it wasn't where it was supposed to be.
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  #35  
Old 04-25-2013, 02:06 PM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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Default What I did.

I used old gourmet coffee tins with lid to keep each rivet style, and size. Each tin labeled with the rivet designation/size.



I used a bin rack from Sams club to hold the coffee tins. All the 426 in one row, #3, #4 etc had a separate bin, each bin held the coffee tin with various lengths. Ditto for all various rivet type and size.

Clecos each had a bin for their size, other small parts in labeled bins.

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Last edited by Mike S : 04-25-2013 at 02:11 PM.
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  #36  
Old 04-25-2013, 08:19 PM
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Heh, I didn't know the bag # is not used in the docs so I labeled every container with bag number *and* the rivet symbol. Sorted them by type and length; looking pretty good so far.

Good idea with the tins however the coffee I drink comes in round glass jars -- harder to get stuff out.
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  #37  
Old 04-26-2013, 04:35 AM
Anton Lawrenz Anton Lawrenz is offline
 
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My 2c - 1)Pneumatic squeezer!!!!!!!!
2) Use a good deburring tool like the yellow three bladed one from Avery. The cheaper ones are rubbish and frustrating to use.
3) Dimple instead of counter-sinking wherever possible - Dimpling is quicker to do and provides a stronger joint. Check on scrap material to ensure material thickness is OK to dimple if in doubt.

Just a note on the pneumatic squeezer......If squeeze power seems low (ie rivets not squeezing completely) then OPEN the gap adjustment - don't close the gap further as power will be further reduced. This seems counter intuitive but is true. (Not a bad idea to learn internal workings of the squeezer)

Last edited by Anton Lawrenz : 04-26-2013 at 04:49 AM. Reason: Add info
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  #38  
Old 04-26-2013, 05:31 AM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Don?t modify anything!

While I really like the DJM Throttle Quadrant in my -9 it took me an additional 40 to 50 hours to figure out how to mount it, make the mount, remake the mount, measure the cables, etc. There no such thing as a simple modification.

However, I really like having a ?custom? plane and would do every single mod again.

Regarding tools, order the tools you will need ahead of time, which means you must read ahead. This will mentally prepare you for the next task and will keep you from trying to use the wrong tool for the job at hand. When you do that, you WILL bugger up a part, reorder and rework the part, and buy the correct tool.

Buy more clecos than you think you will ever need. The same goes for drill bits. Also, buy a few of the countersink micro stops. Just changing bits and adjusting them is a waste of time.

Good luck with your build!
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  #39  
Old 04-26-2013, 06:33 AM
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Bill just triggered a memory of something that I forgot about. This single best investment that I made in tools was:



http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Quick-...ctinfo/QCKITW/

You change drill bits so frequently (at least of the RV-10) that this was a great time saver.
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  #40  
Old 04-26-2013, 08:27 AM
bpattonsoa bpattonsoa is offline
 
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Never dimple for a nut plate. Use the NAS1097 reduced head. Buy a cheap countersink and dedicate it these rivets. Or just use a hand csk., after a few tries it is faster.

Get a foot pedal for your pneumatic squeezers. Clamp the squeezer in a vice and dimple all the edges of formers, ribs, j channels at about 5 seconds per hole. Cheap at McMaster-Carr.

Drop a rivet, loose a rivet. Don't use any more Cleo's then are necessary to hold the structure together. Get a pneumatic cleco device. Get a good 90 degree drill. Use a small grinder and polishing wheels to finish all edges and inside of the lightening holes. Use a low speed screwdriver with a good deburrers bit for most deburrers. Get a couple of in/out deburrers for the rest. Back rivet whenever possible.

Just do it!
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