Practicing

[dspender]

I am practicing with my new Avery Tools awaiting arrival of the 10 empennage kit. Three questions; 1) I have practiced with the Hand Rivet Squeezer on universal rivets. Much harder than with the rivet gun. Is the Hand Rivet Squeezer used to set AN 426 rivets or is this done with the rivet gun? 2) The Avery Tool Kit came with three different sized cupped rivet sets. The have coordinating flat portions. The largest cupped set is the smaller piece. In addition one of the coordinating flat portions is as tiny. Why the three smaller coordinating flat pieces? 3) How do you get the cutting head out of the microstop countersink cutter set? After I countersink some holes, it is difficult to remove the cutter head.

[RV7AJeremy]

Originally Posted by dspender

I am practicing with my new Avery Tools awaiting arrival of the 10 empennage kit. Three questions; 1) I have practiced with the Hand Rivet Squeezer on universal rivets. Much harder than with the rivet gun. Is the Hand Rivet Squeezer used to set AN 426 rivets or is this done with the rivet gun? 2) The Avery Tool Kit came with three different sized cupped rivet sets. The have coordinating flat portions. The largest cupped set is the smaller piece. In addition one of the coordinating flat portions is as tiny. Why the three smaller coordinating flat pieces? 3) How do you get the cutting head out of the microstop countersink cutter set? After I countersink some holes, it is difficult to remove the cutter head.

I'll try on two of the questions:
1. You should be able to use the hand squeezer to set 426 rivets also, you will probably have to swap out the dies to two flat dies.

2. I don't actually understand the question; I bought a different tool set and maybe I didn't get the tools you are describing.

3. To get the cutting head out...put something through the hole in the cutter (I use a center punch type of tool) leave the whole assembly checked in a drill so you can keep it from rotating. while holding the chuck (to keep it from turning), you should be able to unscrew the cutter using the center punch as leverage.....I hope I explained that sufficiently. If not, PM me and I'll make a quick video on the phone and email it to you.

Hope this helps.

[KCBerner]

The cupped heads for 470 rivets
There are two 1/8 sets and one 3/32 set. I believe one of the 1/8 sets is more compact but other than that the same.

There are various flat heads. Sometimes it's better to be compact, sometimes bigger is better

[dspender]

This is helpful. I just called a friend and now I understand the different size inserts for the hand squeezer are for not only different size rivets (3,4,or 5) but also different size areas to get into in order to rivet.

[rmartingt]

Originally Posted by dspender

I have practiced with the Hand Rivet Squeezer on universal rivets. Much harder than with the rivet gun.

That has a lot to do with the size of the rivet. 3/32 rivets are much easier to squeeze than the 1/8 ones.

[YellowJacket RV9]

Originally Posted by rmartingt

That has a lot to do with the size of the rivet. 3/32 rivets are much easier to squeeze than the 1/8 ones.

Agreed. The -4 rivets take a lot more force and I find that makes it harder to keep the squeezer stable. I often buck -4 rivets rather than squeeze, but am careful to do my best to minimize any risks, like slipping bucking bars, etc. and ALWAYS clamp the pieces.

[wirejock]

I'm a Noob so take the advise for what it's worth.
Have you purchased the two practice projects from Vans. They help. I also bought some scrap from a metal yard and made some practice pieces.
Two tools I would not work without are my large mushroom head (1-1/4") flush rivet set and my tungsten bucking bar. The large head helps to protect the surface from dents and the tungsten bar really makes short work of the rivet pounding. Less pounding is good. Plus it fits anywhere.
Another tip. I use book tape over flush rivets to protect the surface. I take several short strips, place rivets with a strip of tape and pound. Then I place more rivets, moving the tape one at a time. It's easy to see which rivets are next. I use a strip of gorilla tape over the round head rivets to protect from smileys.
The sets for the squeezer get swapped and used in all sorts of ways. I use the squeezer as much as possible. It makes perfect shop heads and dimples.
Remember to keep pressure on the gun and and a grip that maintains proper position perpendicular to the work.. Many folks use the gun grip. Stick your hand out like you're shooting someone with the index finger. Grab the gun leaving the index finger pointed and the next finger on the trigger.
Figure out what presures work for which rivets on your gun. My 3x seems to work best at about 20 psi for #3 and about 30-40 psi or #4. I have a regulator on a 6' tail so my pressure at the gun is consistent.o
Finally, after you practice, drill out a bunch of rivets of both types and sizes and do it again. The drilling practice is as important as the rivet practice.