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  #1  
Old 07-27-2006, 07:33 PM
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jlfernan jlfernan is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Port Orange, Fl
Posts: 476
Default Proseal for wing access plates?

About to start on my QB wings. About how much proseal do I need for the access and the fuel senders? Also, are people using the cork and rubber gaskets or just prosealing everything?
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  #2  
Old 07-27-2006, 07:37 PM
svanarts svanarts is offline
 
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I used cork and fuel-lube to close off the access plate. A lot of guys also proseal that plate on. I didn't want to proseal it in because I was afraid I'd never get it off. Then I witnessed a couple friends taking off their tank access plate that was prosealed on. A little gentle coaxing heat from a heat gun and the proseal turned to butter and the plate came right off.

I'm going to proseal it on when I build the 7.
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  #3  
Old 07-27-2006, 10:13 PM
jbDC9 jbDC9 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svanarts
A lot of guys also proseal that plate on. Then I witnessed a couple friends taking off their tank access plate that was prosealed on. A little gentle coaxing heat from a heat gun and the proseal turned to butter and the plate came right off.
Was this just proseal or the cork gasket smeared with proseal? Hopefully going to seal mine up soon... inquiring minds wanna know.

John
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  #4  
Old 07-28-2006, 06:29 AM
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Mel Mel is offline
 
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Proseal only. You can remove it with a sharp putty knife if necessary.
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  #5  
Old 07-28-2006, 08:31 AM
DGlaeser DGlaeser is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Rochester Hills, MI
Posts: 878
Default Tank cover sealing

I just removed a ProSealed tank cover (no gasket) to comply with the SB. It was easier than I thought it would be BUT the wings are not installed!. It would have been a MUCH tougher job if the wings were on.
I decided to reinstall with the cork gaskets buttered up with TiteSeal instead of ProSeal. TiteSeal never hardens, so if I ever have to remove the covers again (after the wings are installed) it won't involve peeling off a prosealed cover. The TiteSeal needs a gasket (ProSeal only doesn't).
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  #6  
Old 07-28-2006, 10:53 AM
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Low Pass Low Pass is offline
 
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I prosealed my crank seal and seal cover plate to my engine. My buddies said it would never come off/loose. Month or so later (whole 'nother story), it did with a moderate amount of help from a thin knife blade. Slide the blade between the sealing surfaces and got it started. It was reasonably easy to disassemble, IMO.
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  #7  
Old 07-28-2006, 11:25 AM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Location: Dayton, NV
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I pro-sealed my access plates with no cork, and they have been fine. I originally installed the fuel senders with just the supplied gaskets - and they leaked (Becasue I didn't goop up the screws with anything). I subsequently did the senders with no gaskets, pro-seal only, and no more leaks.

Just a data point

Paul
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  #8  
Old 07-28-2006, 01:21 PM
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frankh frankh is offline
 
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Location: Corvallis Oregon
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Default Prosealed covers

Just did my invert tank pickup mods for the SB with my prosealed covers.

At first it was not easy...i did not like the heat gun thing as it was a little close to the proseal used to asseble the tanks. I could not find a decent tool to slip under the cover either.

Eventually I took a paint scraper and a SS rule. I ground the edges of the scraper and ruler so they were like a razor.

Cut right thru with a little brute force and ignorance.

As my fuel pumps are in the wing roots I decided to make my tanks removable.

This means painting the tanks seperate from the wings and assembling with SS torx screws.

I get to hang the wings this evening, weigh it next week (if the FBO will give me access to their scales) and then schedule the inspection for 2 weeks after that...feels close to first flight time..

Frank
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  #9  
Old 07-28-2006, 04:47 PM
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jlfernan jlfernan is offline
 
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Location: Port Orange, Fl
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I appreciate all the responses, but I would still like to know about how much proseal I need to buy. I'd hate to buy the quart if I could manage with one ounce.
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  #10  
Old 07-28-2006, 05:22 PM
sf3543 sf3543 is offline
 
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Location: San Antonio, TX
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I prosealed mine in about three months ago.
A glob of proseal about the size of a golf ball will do both access covers as well as both of the fuel sending units and put some on the threads of all of the screws. You should even have enough to dab around on the exposed screws, etc when you are done, if you want to.
I mixed up smaller amounts, enough to do one side at a time, but if you have everything ready you could do all of them with the same batch. You do not need to put a lot on these surfaces, since it squeezes out and just forms a bead around the edges, both inside and outside of the tank.
39 hours and no leaks.
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