Properly Wiring LED Dimmer

[larrynew]

I've searched my copy of the Aeroelectric Connection, AC43, B and C, Steinair and this site and can't find the proper "aircraft" way to wire my LED Dimmer. Are there tiny tabs to fit the 4 tiny slots? Or do I tin the wires and insert them and tighten the screws? Just securing the wires with the screws doesn't seem very secure compared to ring terminals or faston tabs.

[humptybump]

My RV-8 has a similar controller. The builder did not tin the wires prior to inserting them into the slots and "clamping" them down with the set screws. It's worked fine and I re-installed the same unit the same way during my panel upgrade. YMMV

[ILikePike]

I have used those green screw terminal blocks on airport lighting controls. tinning the wire ends may be wise but shouldn't be nessessary.

Not trying to steal your thread but, I have been working on electrical system design for my 8. I have not made all lighting choices yet, but I am planing 4 dimmers and all LEDs 1)instrument flood, 2)instruments, 3)pilot cabin, and 4)copilot cabin. Control 4 will preferably be in reach of pilot and GIB. The controller shown above is cheap and can handle 6 amps. Good choice or should I be considering some controllers like those found at ACS?

[BillFear]

We use this style connector on industrial products with good success. I just used it on the twisted copper stripped wires, will tin them when I add my cargo area light at this years conditional. I fused this circuit right at the battery in case there were any shorts in the wiring or the LED strips.

Originally Posted by larrynew

I've searched my copy of the Aeroelectric Connection, AC43, B and C, Steinair and this site and can't find the proper "aircraft" way to wire my LED Dimmer. Are there tiny tabs to fit the 4 tiny slots? Or do I tin the wires and insert them and tighten the screws? Just securing the wires with the screws doesn't seem very secure compared to ring terminals or faston tabs.

[JonJay]

I would hook up your dimmer and LED's on a test power supply along with an intercom or radio and see if you get any interference.
"PWM" stands for Pulse Width Modulation. They vary the power by adjusting the frequency of the pulses through rapid switching of the solid state device. From the looks of the simple board, there is nothing else going on there in regard to filtering so I would suspect this controller to be quite noisy.
Not an issue in your kitchen. Might be in your airplane.

[MarkW]

Tinning a stranded wire would be similar to soldering a crimp on terminal. I believe I have read that this is not recommended. I think it adds rigidity to the connection which can cause the wire to break rather than flex. I would simply twist the stranded wire and tighten the screw.

[JonJay]

Originally Posted by MarkW

Tinning a stranded wire would be similar to soldering a crimp on terminal. I believe I have read that this is not recommended. I think it adds rigidity to the connection which can cause the wire to break rather than flex. I would simply twist the stranded wire and tighten the screw.

You are correct, but the rigidity of the wire occurs if you allow the solder or flux to wick up into the insulation. A properly stripped and tinned wire should not be rigid or brittle.
To your point, a terminal connector captures the insulation making it very difficult to impossible to solder without it wicking up the insulation. That is why it is not recommended on terminal connections unless they are bare wire, like a ground strap etc...

[CharlieWaffles]

I have two of these exact dimmers in my plane and while not flying, all the electrical and audio checks I've done have produced zero interference. As far as the wiring, I crimped a D-Sub male pin onto each wire and then inserted that into the connector and screwed tight. The wire can't be deformed this way and nothing gets brittle. For power connections I add a little shrink tube to the d-sub to protect them from ground contact.

[JonJay]

Originally Posted by CharlieWaffles

I have two of these exact dimmers in my plane and while not flying, all the electrical and audio checks I've done have produced zero interference. As far as the wiring, I crimped a D-Sub male pin onto each wire and then inserted that into the connector and screwed tight. The wire can't be deformed this way and nothing gets brittle. For power connections I add a little shrink tube to the d-sub to protect them from ground contact.

Good to know. I suspect the "noise" is still there, but if it isn't affecting anything.....
Probably a credit to the quality of the intercom and radios we are using today or it is simply modulating outside of any frequency that causes any problem.

[bird]

We use this type connector at work a lot, stranded wire can be inserted and it will remain a good connection, other choice would be , as mentioned above, crimp a pin on and secure it in the connection. By the way, where can I buy that dimmer, I need one, what is the part #? Thanks

Bird