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  #11  
Old 01-06-2013, 10:35 AM
jim plaster jim plaster is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: N.C.
Posts: 144
Default oblong holes

Don't think I'd use cherrymax rivets on a spar...imho...having been an a&p for 34 years i've seen these fastners loosen over time. We used them only as temporary repairs until permanent repairs could be made. Blind installations required cherrymax rivets or huck bolts . If I were building spars in your situation I'd use a piloted reamer to clear up the holes,especially on a spar. Start with a 1st over and see where you end up. If the new part is cheap just replace it and match ream,not drill the holes.
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  #12  
Old 01-07-2013, 11:34 AM
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Golf Echo Golf Echo is offline
 
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Location: Prince George, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew M View Post
I personally aviod cherrys. Here is the P.N for oversize solid, think the other "oops" rivet, NAS1242AD universal head and NAS1241AD countersunk.
http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com...s_Oversize.pdf
It's hard to see without a rivet in the hole, but I might be inclined to see if a standard rivet, maybe a half size longer, would go. Just get it to fill up the hole once it's set.
Cherrys are "riskier" to remove if you have problems, and most any DER will tell you to avoid mixing up the type of fasteners in a line because how they flex (or not) differently.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt View Post
Agree with Andrew, fill the ones that are in limits with -4's, step up the rest to either the OS rivet or -5's.
Guys,

Do you have a suggestion on where to source the NAS1242AD4 rivets? I can't find them on the Van's site or at Aircraft Spruce.

Thanks.
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  #13  
Old 01-07-2013, 12:53 PM
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Walt Walt is offline
 
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Try our friends at GAHCO
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  #14  
Old 01-09-2013, 08:53 AM
edbooth edbooth is offline
 
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Location: Trenton, SC
Posts: 117
Default oblong holes

Just for my 2 cents, I don't know how you used your reamer, but I have found that you get better results when pulling the reamer through the hole rather than trying to force it through like a drill bit.

Ed Booth
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  #15  
Old 01-10-2013, 07:52 PM
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Golf Echo Golf Echo is offline
 
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Location: Prince George, BC
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Default Update...

Thanks everyone for your input and suggestions thus far.

I spoke with Van's... They aren't very keen on me using NAS1242AD rivets as a fix based on the number of NAS rivets that would be required, and the corresponding number of under-sized heads.

They are suggesting either stepping up to AD5 rivets or replacing the parts. At this point I'm leaning towards at least giving it a go with the AD5 rivets, and seeing how things work out. I'd probably end up re-drilling and using AD5s in most of the 603pp to 609pp attach holes. If it all goes sideways, I can always order the new parts.

Of course, I'll need to buy a 5/32" cup set as I don't already have one. I'm thinking a 5/32" cup set and the 12" back-riveting set from Cleaveland would let me set these rivets using my 3x rivet gun and c-frame with hopefully excellent results. Anybody have experience with using this setup to shoot AD5 rivets?
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Last edited by Golf Echo : 01-10-2013 at 08:18 PM. Reason: 5/32" NOT 5/16" -- Fractions are hard ;)
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  #16  
Old 01-10-2013, 08:15 PM
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Mel Mel is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Golf Echo View Post
Of course, I'll need to buy a 5/16" cup set as I don't already have one. I'm thinking a 5/16" cup set and the 12" back-riveting set from Cleaveland would let me set these rivets using my 3x rivet gun and c-frame with hopefully excellent results. Anybody have experience with using this setup to shoot AD5 rivets?
I think/hope you mean 5/32". No reason to get too carried away.
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  #17  
Old 01-10-2013, 08:17 PM
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Golf Echo Golf Echo is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mel View Post
I think/hope you mean 5/32". No reason to get too carried away.
Whoops!
Definitely meant 5/32".
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