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  #1  
Old 12-10-2012, 01:32 AM
ron sterba ron sterba is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: salem Oregon
Posts: 1,023
Question 9A Brake caliper line installation.

The plans C-2 shows a wrap around on gear leg of a 9A as the brake line enters the caliper. Drawing could use a few more details so here goes. What size radius on the big turn back to the caliper and what thread locker/ seal should i used on the AN 4 D fittings at caliper and fuselage/gear leg fitting? EZ turn, or Locktite 567 or what do you recommend. Used ez turn on all my stainless steel brake lines to the pedals fittings inside the cabin. Any pictures would be great too! Any new ideas on strapping brake line to the gear leg. Much appreciated for your thoughts.

Ron in Oregon
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  #2  
Old 12-10-2012, 01:40 AM
gasman gasman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
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Default

The main thing to remember as you bend the radius is make it as big as possible without it EVER touching anything. And lining up with the caliper fitting.

Don't use anything on the threads.
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  #3  
Old 12-10-2012, 08:16 AM
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mikehoover mikehoover is offline
 
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Here are links to a couple of my log entries on installing the brake lines:

http://www.aclog.com/rv-9a/index.php?c=5#947

http://www.aclog.com/rv-9a/index.php?c=5#946
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  #4  
Old 12-10-2012, 09:14 AM
gear1 gear1 is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Pagosa Springs CO
Posts: 243
Default Brake lines

Ron,
I was concerned when I noticed some evidence of flexing damage at the caliper end of the brake line on my RV8. I eliminated the loop replacing it with a 6" length of -3 Teflon lined Braided stainless hose.It required a -4 to -3 adapter at the shortened end of the brake line and a 90 degree -3 to 1/8" pipe adapter at the caliper. Of course two -3 hose ends were required, too. A secondary benefit is that static loading on the caliper from the loop is completely eliminating brake drag - the brake pads actually rattle a bit during taxi!

As a side note: Can anyone tell me why -4 line is used for brakes by Van's? It seems to me that -3 would be lighter, handle more pressure and be easier to work with..... I am contemplating the replacement if the remaining -4 hard lines and flex lines with -3.
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  #5  
Old 12-10-2012, 11:37 AM
ron sterba ron sterba is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: salem Oregon
Posts: 1,023
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Thanks Guys, good things to think about. Mike like the pictures, great help. Just noticed my Cleveland wheel & brakes info page shows caliper it to be on top of the rotor but a call to Vans minutes ago says to the rear of the rotor as in your pictures Mike and C-2 plan drwg. I will carry on today with brake lines installed. Appreciate all your help guys. Gasman you are EXACTLY RIGHT ON with Don't let the loops touch a thing. Also Vans said a LIGHT lubricate on the two positioning PINS of the caliper. Something like Lubriplate FINE/thin film type but nothing heavy that will hold on to dust/dirt.

Ron in Oregon QB9A

Last edited by ron sterba : 12-11-2012 at 12:30 PM.
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  #6  
Old 12-10-2012, 07:35 PM
Rupester Rupester is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Mahomet, Illinois
Posts: 2,195
Default A word of caution ...

...if you make the flex" loop too big, it will not fit inside the wheel pants. I originally made mine with a 5" to 6" dia loop, not considering stuffing all that inside the wheel pants. I eventually had to remove the hard lines with the loops ... and then installed Bonaco hoses, as it was much easier, fit nicely within the wheel pant, and didn't cost that much. It did, however, force me to bleed the brakes a second time. (Arghhh.... can you tell I really dislike that job?)
My guess is the loop would have to be 3" to 4" in dia. to fit inside the pants.
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