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12-06-2012, 11:20 AM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: salem Oregon
Posts: 1,023
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Hi Joe, Thanks for your feed back. I guess I thought that the QBuild flaps and ailerons are perfect and appeared level on the concrete floor. When we set the incidence we check rechecked double checked up to four times prior to drilling the aft holes for the aft wing bolt attachment. The F-999 wing root fairing appears to be straight across on the bottom at the aft end of the strip. So I feel better now that you builders have given me a feeling of you are not alone, but I'll be up at Vans factory in a day or so and I'll ask them.Appreciate the feed back and looking forward to a first flight. Dynon 10" and Catto Prop.
Ron in Oregon
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12-06-2012, 12:00 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: salem Oregon
Posts: 1,023
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Hi Terry, I guess I haven't heard the term splitting the tip. How is that done and why? I know when I slid the wing tip on the joggle in the fiberglass tip that lines up with the wing skin, it was off maybe a 1/16" of a inch. I say this because when I lined up the aileron trailing edge with the trailing edge of the fiberglass wing tip( To keep a straight edge along both edges) I figured it (edge) would be consistent with the flap trailing edge all the way to the fuselage. All three surfaces are, and both flap gaps at the fuselage are within 1/32". Now I might be splitting hairs here but we are building machines that are 25% of the speed of sound. Mark that was interesting about the Factory 9A in that the top of the flap was trimmed. This can only make me think that a designer of a aircraft might say that there are different builds in fuselages and to make the aircraft to comply with the closest aero dynamics. I say this because in a perfect B-1 bomber build you might just bolt your wings on in the holes provided, for and aft. So, in this case, you set your cabin level ( mine set with a digital level within 1-2 tenths of a degree). So setting the incidence separate and acknowledge the difference and to fly the machine makes us pro-builders. I love this THINK TANK that Doug has provided. You guys are great.
Ron in Oregon
Chptr 292 Vice Pres
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12-06-2012, 12:07 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: salem Oregon
Posts: 1,023
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Hello Wallace. The rub tape sounds good, one builder said put it on the flap and one said to put it up under the trailing edge of the wing skin where it would ( BE Effective) still rub but be out of sight. I don't know about you but I have been to so many RV aircraft gatherings and fly-ins you would think a person would pick up on these things we discuss on the forums page such as gaps in the wings at the fuselage.
Ron in Oregon.
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12-06-2012, 12:32 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: salem Oregon
Posts: 1,023
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Thanks Joe . Much appreciated. If there was one thing I learned here was to drill the hole in the fuselage for the Flap Push rod. Builders who haven't cut the hole yet, heres the simple way of doing it. Observe the hole on the inboard side of the flap for the PUSHROD attach point. Attach the flap to the wing. Go under the fuselage and look at the pushrod attack hole and mark a line on the fuselage across from that hole. Place a quarter over the line that you just drew (centered) and keeping the quarter even with the fuselage edge. Draw a circle around that quarter. remove the quarter saving it in a jar for your EFIS display. Use a uni-bit and start enlarging the hole to at least 3/4". This will put you in the ballpark. the center spot of starting this hole. I used a dremel 1/2" sanding drum to enlarge the hole as needed.
Ron in Oregon
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12-07-2012, 12:50 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: KTCY
Posts: 643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupester
... I think much of that was the excessive time I spent adjusting, checking, and readjusting the aileron rigging using the W-930 tool and the wing end jig bolted on the tooling holes. I still ended up splitting and regluing the wingtips, though... they were off by 3/8" or more. ...
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Our flaps were about a 1/2 inch low when aligned with the aileron before we spent many hours and several iterations through the aileron alignment process. After which everything lined up except the tips that were split to match everything else...
__________________
Dave & Trina
RV-9A Flying  - 330 Hrs. Painted  Finishing the interior.
Last edited by MauiLvrs : 12-08-2012 at 12:34 PM.
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12-08-2012, 12:10 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: salem Oregon
Posts: 1,023
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Hi Dave, I got up to look at several RV9s and I'am not going to nick pick until later. Seems I looked into page 15-2 about the travel of the flaps down, well after checking my FULL UP position with edges misaligned by 3/8" of a inch and full down at 37 degrees this must be the perfect world because the minimum travel down is 32 degrees which I have with all edges in line (but with a 3/8" gap at flap and fuselage) tells me to read into the variable (32-37 min/max) and I think we all have in this posting of my,yours and the rest of the builders that we can achieve stardom! However your point is well taken and noted and will use it later and also share it with other builders. Thanks Dave and maybe I'll see you at Vans home coming someday which is at our EAA 292 hangar.
Ron in Oregon
292 chptr Vice Pres
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12-08-2012, 08:49 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Lake Country, B.C. Canada
Posts: 2,416
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flush or ????
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcattell
Here's a photo of the factory RV-9A flap end. You'll notice how the bottom skin is trimmed off past the rod bearing. Has anyone else done this or did I miss that detail in the instructions?
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Perhaps they got tired of people asking why the flaps didn't fit tight to the fuse? 
__________________
Perry Y.
RV-9a - SOLD!....
Lake Country, BC
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12-11-2012, 12:15 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: salem Oregon
Posts: 1,023
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Hey Perry. I was looking at that flap picture that was submitted and I got to thinking its like a gear door,when the flaps are full up it covers the the push-rod hole. Neat idea! The rest you trim off.
Ron in Oregon
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