Back rivet plate setup advice

[digidocs]

Hi there,

Up until now, I've been back riveting with the plate just sitting on my bench, and I feel like its time to upgrade to a "flush mounted solution". Two questions:

1. Where on your bench did you install (recess) your back rivet plate, and how do you like that position?

2. Is there an easy way to tell whether or not you're still over the plate other than picking everything up and looking underneath?

Thanks!

[LettersFromFlyoverCountry]

Question #2 reveals one of the habits of the flush mounted plate. I've done it both ways. Early on I flush-mounted it but by the end of the build, it was just sitting underneath the work.

When it was flush mounted, however, I drew extended lines out and up from its edges so that I could tell if it was on the plate. Even though I did that, however, I still picked it up and confirmed -- a habit, by the way, that would stand you in good stead.

I really don't think there's much to be gained by the process, and , besides, nothing tells you you're off the edge like a backplate sitting proud on the table.

[Dbro172]

Unless you're going to start mass producing, it may not be necessary to spend the time to recess the plate; not to mention being bound to the selected location.

What I did was get some osb board (1/4" I believe)(plywood, Masonite, whatever.) cut some strips and used it to build up the elevation of the table adjacent to the plate. I even put a few layers of masking tape on the backside of the plate to get it exactly flush with the board.

My workspace was limited to two EAA tables so moving the plate was necessary and I could arrange the board and plates to suit

Either way, when building flaps and elevators, setting the plate flush with the adjacent surface will eliminate at least one risk in making a straight and true surface without twist.

[WAM120RV]

I got two pieces chip board the same thicknes as the plate, about 2 feet by 1 foot and cut the shape of the plat out of one of them. The two boards are glued together and board with the hole sits on top of the other, with the plate sat in the hole.


You can still move it about, take the plate out, but it does offer more support to panels.

Always check you are on the plate or you can wreck a skin!!

[Lemmingman]

Like others, I chose not to embed it in my bench. I like being able to orient the bar as needed. I also use a 1/4" piece of press board (I think I got it for a drawer bottom originally) and it keeps everything flush.

7 rivets is all I do per "run". I orient my plate how I need it and rivet 7 rivets. I know that if I go 8 I'll still be OK, but 7 allows for a good safety margin. I then scoot the plate and repeat. If I try to do 9 rivets then I have to stop the process and go call Vans.

[N15JB]

You can use a magnet on the upper surface of the piece being riveted to determine if you are over the backing plate, but it is just as easy to look.

Jim Berry
Rv-10

[claycookiemonster]

I got a carpet remnant about the thickness of the back rivet plate, cut out a spot for the plate and tacked it to a larger piece of scrap - like a piece of the delivery box. Actually, if the carpet holds the work a tiny bit above the plate there'll be fewer chances to scratch your work, but as you press down with the back riveter, you'll be able to tell if you're on the plate by the solid resistance you feel.
Clay "Cookie Monster" Cook
recently returned to lurker status