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  #1  
Old 11-23-2012, 09:16 PM
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RVG8tor RVG8tor is offline
 
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Default Safety wire 200RV

I have read on the threads based on numerous searhes and lots of folks talk about how difficult the 200RV is to safety but now one explains how they get it done. I understand loosening a nut to get the wire into a roll pin due to the torqued orientation of the pin preventing wire insertion.

My issue is on half the nuts the tension to keep the nut tight is from the interior side, and a twisted .032 wire will not fit heck a twisted wire will not fit between the hub and the top of the nut!. I have one nut when torqued that the corner of the hex right at the interior of the hub, I would be hard pressed to fit a piece of paper


Obviously pictures would be great but how do you make this work. I thought of wiring by skipping a bolt would cause some criss crossing. On all but one I can get one .032 wire, is it okay to do a running safety with one single wire?

Thanks in advance., I also did a Google search for images seems everyone takes pictures of the prop after installed but no pictures of the safety wire. The images I did find were Hartzells and they seem to have a lot more access to fit a twisted wire.

Cheers
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  #2  
Old 11-23-2012, 10:23 PM
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schristo@mac.com schristo@mac.com is offline
 
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Default safety wiring the prop...

Not sure just what you are looking for... here is a shot of a pair of prop studs on my Whirlwind 200RV. Notice the torque mark. Everything was torqued down first and any conflicting points when safety wiring were marked and backed off to aid in getting the wire positioned then tightened back to the torque mark.

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  #3  
Old 11-24-2012, 03:00 AM
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Default

Just out of interest Stephen, is your Whirlwind backplate in 2 pieces??
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  #4  
Old 11-24-2012, 09:42 AM
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RVG8tor RVG8tor is offline
 
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Smile Lower nut

Quote:
Originally Posted by schristo@mac.com View Post
Not sure just what you are looking for... here is a shot of a pair of prop studs on my Whirlwind 200RV. Notice the torque mark. Everything was torqued down first and any conflicting points when safety wiring were marked and backed off to aid in getting the wire positioned then tightened back to the torque mark.

Steve,

Thanks for the picture, my issue is with the lower nut in your picture, There is no space for the wire to go between the nut and the hub. On all but one nut with this orientation I can pass a singe wire but a twisted pair just will not fit.

I read one post in a search and that person used a file to notch the nut to make room between the hub and the nut for the wires. This does not seem like a good idea but maybe it is the only way. I like a post by Walt who seems to be an experienced A/P he does not use safety wire at all instead does a periodic torque check on the nuts. This however will not work for me now since I still need an AW inspection and my guess is that the DAR will want to see safety wires.

So how did you get the wires to fit on nut like the lower one?

Are you in the Seattle area and want to help me with this

I should point out my issue is that I have nut oriented like you upper nut next to each other, the roll pin opening is right at the inside making getting the wire in there impossible without some modification to the hyub or nut. If I skip over an adjacent nut I might make it work but then there would be criss crossing wires.

I can fit two wires in a roll pin one thought was to wire like the one above and then secure the tail in the lower nut but it would be from the out side in (not pulling in the tight direction). I could then run another wire in the same nut and pull it in the tight direction. I don't know if that makes sense.

Cheers
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Last edited by RVG8tor : 11-24-2012 at 09:47 AM. Reason: Added more info
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  #5  
Old 11-24-2012, 09:53 AM
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Default start the wire on the 'impossible' nut...

Mike, mark the torque on the 'impossible' nut... back it off so that it can easily be safety wired (as the starting point in the pair to be wired)... wrench the nut with the wire attached back to the torque point... now terminate the safety wire at the easy nut in the pair.

Are you at the airport yet? Shoot me your details and I will drop in.
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  #6  
Old 11-24-2012, 10:02 AM
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Default No room for wire

Steve,

I get the part about loosening the nut to get the wire in and twisted, the the problem is when it comes time to tighten the nut where the wire had to pull from the direction like the lower nut in your picture there is not room between the nut and hub for the wire.

I am at home right now, I have the plane at Sanderson Field near Shelton KSHN. I can meet you there anytime you are free to come out.

Cheers
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  #7  
Old 11-24-2012, 10:15 AM
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Default PM Sent

Steve,

I sent you my contact information. Perhaps the weather gods will give a break in the rain so you can drop by.
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  #8  
Old 11-24-2012, 11:51 AM
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Default Options

Mike, consider these options:
1) fiddle until it works (ie placement of the twists)
2) use smaller wire
3) wire in series
4) forego safety wire

I originally wired in series, then re-did it using tubes over the hub.
I may have used smaller wire.

Note: the hartzell on my Bonanza uses no safety wire.

What makes you comfortable?

Don
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  #9  
Old 11-24-2012, 12:09 PM
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Default Single wire behind nut

Mike,

Having removed/replaced my 200RV roughly seven times in the last 8 years for various reasons, I got pretty good at safetying the nuts. I'm pretty sure there is a way to maintain proper pull without having to run a twisted wire behind the nut. Out of all the troubles I've had in the past with those nuts, your problem wasn't one of them. There is a way to do it on every nut without sacrificing the integrity of the wire pull. I'm far and away from my plane otherwise I'd shoot you photos.

Tobin
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  #10  
Old 11-24-2012, 07:16 PM
scsmith scsmith is offline
 
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Default dont do the twists

At the close point between the nut and hub, just run a single wire, then, join with the other wire and twist after the close point. It will leave a single wire running through the close point. Better than no wire at all
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