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  #151  
Old 07-16-2014, 11:37 AM
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CharlieWaffles CharlieWaffles is offline
 
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Considering these are used for several different models - should this thread be moved to the General forum for greater awareness across the different models? Thinking from a safety and possible awareness effort.
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  #152  
Old 07-16-2014, 11:55 AM
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drill_and_buck drill_and_buck is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
(c) In either case, install the second reed valve as an automatic positive pressure relief. (install photo in post 98)
I would like to install the second reed valve but do not have the means to fabricate a T connector. I have been unsuccessful in locating a metal connector. Has anyone found a good source?
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  #153  
Old 07-16-2014, 01:59 PM
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PerfTech PerfTech is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
Continue with an evacuator or not? All users will need to make their own decision. If you elect to keep the exhaust tap, I'd suggest this approach:

(a) 25 hr inspection intervals if operated as delivered from Anti-Splat.

(b) 25 hr inspection intervals if operating an experimental system or component of your own design.

(c) In either case, install the second reed valve as an automatic positive pressure relief. (install photo in post 98)

I like the benefits of negative case pressure, so I will continue to experiment, following (b) and (c). The goal is a non-coking tap.

Special request: please report ANY problem with a relief valve installation immediately. So far, it worked just as intended for Vic (provided a positive pressure relief after exhaust tap blockage), but that's just one case. If there is an unknown issue with the relief valve installation, everyone should be made aware ASAP.
... I agree with everything Dan has suggested here, and think this should be followed to the letter, especially with an RV-10 installations. We have stopped sales of the vacuum system parts for install on the 10s until we can assure this problem is corrected. We are trying to address the issue and do appreciate any and all input from outside sources. If someone can show a design change (say on the saddle mount for instance) that can help prevent this we would be happy to produce them and replace all the RV-10 units sold at no cost. Also we want to make anyone with an issue of any type involving an ASA product aware of our return policy. Just send it back for a full, prompt, no hassle refund. Thanks, Allan...
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  #154  
Old 07-16-2014, 02:01 PM
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PerfTech PerfTech is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drill_and_buck View Post
I would like to install the second reed valve but do not have the means to fabricate a T connector. I have been unsuccessful in locating a metal connector. Has anyone found a good source?
... If you show us what you need we can make one for you. Thanks, Allan..
This is available from Mc. Master Carr and will most likely fill your need; 5/8" 91355K53 $8.40
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Last edited by PerfTech : 07-16-2014 at 02:13 PM. Reason: part #
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  #155  
Old 07-16-2014, 04:41 PM
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Mike S Mike S is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieWaffles View Post
Considering these are used for several different models - should this thread be moved to the General forum for greater awareness across the different models? Thinking from a safety and possible awareness effort.
Good idea, will do so.
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  #156  
Old 07-16-2014, 06:12 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drill_and_buck View Post
I would like to install the second reed valve but do not have the means to fabricate a T connector. I have been unsuccessful in locating a metal connector. Has anyone found a good source?
Should work...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite...LFA5/202270598
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  #157  
Old 07-16-2014, 06:27 PM
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Toobuilder Toobuilder is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
...I like the benefits of negative case pressure, so I will continue to experiment, following (b) and (c). The goal is a non-coking tap...
Newer diesel powered light trucks have exhaust tip augmentors that draw in fresh air to dilute the particulates. Any reason the same concept could not be applied to an aircraft engine? Exhaust flow combined with cowl exit airflow should be able to generate negative pressure in this venturi. Benefits include no need for the reed check valve, and the temperature of the stub pipe will be well below the coking temperature.

Might not have quite the "sucking power" of the reed valve tapped into the primary tube, but should still pull some, and keep the belly clean.
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WARNING! Incorrect design and/or fabrication of aircraft and/or components may result in injury or death. Information presented in this post is based on my own experience - Reader has sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for use.

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  #158  
Old 07-16-2014, 09:19 PM
N427EF N427EF is offline
 
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Default 1/2"copper T

Quote:
would like to install the second reed valve but do not have the means to fabricate a T connector. I have been unsuccessful in locating a metal connector. Has anyone found a good source?
A 1/2" copper T works as well.
About a dollar for that.
ACE Hardware, Lowes, Home Depot.
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  #159  
Old 07-16-2014, 09:34 PM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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I'm trying to visualize this:

So we install the Antisplat per instructions, with the main breather line going to the NAPA-type valve first then terminating in the saddle penetrating the exhaust.

The "safety" line coming off the T, on the other hand, is simply an open tube like that of the Van's stock setup and it can be routed wherever we want, perhaps over the other exhaust pipe. Is this basically correct?

What's to keep the oil from going out the open safety tube rather than to the valve and exhaust saddle? The suction created by the exhaust does this?

Does the above suggest I'm understanding this correctly?
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  #160  
Old 07-16-2014, 11:05 PM
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ColoRv ColoRv is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinelakespilot2000 View Post
I'm trying to visualize this:

So we install the Antisplat per instructions, with the main breather line going to the NAPA-type valve first then terminating in the saddle penetrating the exhaust.

The "safety" line coming off the T, on the other hand, is simply an open tube like that of the Van's stock setup and it can be routed wherever we want, perhaps over the other exhaust pipe. Is this basically correct?

What's to keep the oil from going out the open safety tube rather than to the valve and exhaust saddle? The suction created by the exhaust does this?

Does the above suggest I'm understanding this correctly?

I don't believe so. The safety line being open would simply dump the crankcase out the end of it. At the end of the safety line is supposed to be another NAPA 2-29000....allowing any positive pressure to dump overboard. Point being if the antisplat system fails as it appears prone to do, either by coking over or valve sticks....no positive pressure builds in the case.
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Last edited by ColoRv : 07-16-2014 at 11:08 PM.
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