Torquing Oil Gage Tube

[Jeff A]

The oil gage tube (a.k.a. oil level gage housing) on my XP-360 is loose. The manual says to torque the tube to 300 in/lbs. Is there a special wrench (and I don't mean the torque wrench ) to get on the tube and re-torque it? Or do I need to modify a crowsfoot to fit it?

[Bob Kuykendall]

Originally Posted by Jeff A

The oil gage tube (a.k.a. oil level gage housing) on my XP-360 is loose. The manual says to torque the tube to 300 in/lbs. Is there a special wrench (and I don't mean the torque wrench ) to get on the tube and re-torque it? Or do I need to modify a crowsfoot to fit it?

Oil level or oil pressure? Regardless, that sounds like a lot of torque for a sensor of any sort.

A crowsfoot plus a torque wrench would probably work, but I'd be a bit worried about it spreading and rounding the corners of the nut. What I'd probably do is use one of those slotted box end wrenches designed for tubing fittings, and use either a calibrated hand or a fish scale at the other end of the wrench to get the torque right.

If you do use an adapter on a torque wrench, you'll need to do some measuring and some arithmetic to apply a correction factor that accounts for the leverage contribution of the crowsfoot. This web page shows you how:

http://www.engineersedge.com/manufac...e_wrench_1.htm

Thanks, Bob K.

[gasman]

If you are talking about the dip stick tube, make sure it has a gasket at the base and just snug it up with an adjustable wrench.

A 1 1/8" crow foot is not worth purchasing for this application. JUST MAKE IT SNUG. Then safety wire it. Caution!!! It is plastic.

[Ron B.]

My 0-360 dip stick tube had the same problem. I tried various sealants with no luck. I was then informed on this site to get a "REAL" gasket. REAL being the brand name. I also was informed that after tightening to lock the tube with safety wire in both directions. This way if someone overtightens the dip stick the tube doesn't rotate tighter , then loosen when it is removed. Not a drop has seeped out since doing this about a year ago.

[Jeff A]

I'll try the Real gasket and safety wire in both directions. As far as the torque goes, I'm looking at the Superior manual right now and it clearly says 300 in/lbs on the gage/filler tube. I'm 99% sure the tube is aluminum and not plastic.

Maybe I'll just try the gasket and safety wire hand tight before trying to torque. Thanks for the input.

[Bob Kuykendall]

Oh, the dipstick housing! I thought you meant something different.

Last time I tightened one of those it was with a regular adjustable wrench. I think I used red RTV instead of a gasket, and safety-wired it tight. Last I checked, it was still tight, no drips.

Thanks, Bob K.

[Ron B.]

Mine was plastic. I only tightened snug with the gasket.

[Jeff A]

Due to the angle of the tube and the proximity of the engine mount, I seem to remember I couldn't get a wrench on it at the last oil change. I'll try the gasket and safety both ways and see what happens. Just a bit annoying. Seems like I mess with it every time the cowling comes off. I'll get it sooner or later.