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  #1  
Old 08-16-2012, 10:59 AM
Echo Tango Echo Tango is offline
 
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Location: SFO Approach
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Default Rivet Problem, help please

I'm running a 2x gun and it works fine for setting AD3 rivets, but when i get into the AD4s, I can't get the rivets to set properly. On flush rivets, for instance the heads become flattened (50 psi) before the shop head forms and if I turn the pressure up to 60psi the gun is completely uncontrollable (50 is even a bit jumpy).

I am pushing very firmly on the manufacture head with the gun and just letting the bucking bar sit loosely but securely over the shop head. This works GREAT for the AD3 rivets. Very consistent and "pretty" rivets. It takes a good 10+ seconds of trigger pulling to form a marginal shop head on an AD4 size, and by that time the flush heads look a bit "pancaked."

What am I doing wrong here? If I lower the PSI, they won't set at all and tend to work-harden and if I raise the PSI the gun jumps around wildly. Should I buy a 3x gun? I'm getting sick of (but really good at) drilling out rivets. VERY frustrating to the point that I'm avoiding the workshop. I'm about one more bad rivet from throwing my entire project in the trash.
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  #2  
Old 08-16-2012, 11:04 AM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
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Photos would help.

Are you by any chance trying to drive a round head rivet with a flat faced set??
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VAF 909

Rv-10, N210LM.

Flying as of 12/4/2010

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  #3  
Old 08-16-2012, 11:09 AM
Echo Tango Echo Tango is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike S View Post
Photos would help.

Are you by any chance trying to drive a round head rivet with a flat faced set??
i'll get some photos, and no I'm not
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  #4  
Old 08-16-2012, 11:18 AM
Echo Tango Echo Tango is offline
 
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let me know if these don't show up. they work for me since they're in my cache but may be invisible to anyone else.

As you can see by the black discoloration the gun was wandering a bit (the two really bad ones were drilled and re-riveted), the others were just done once. You can tell which ones were squeezed. The shop heads are pretty poor as well, IMO

Last edited by Echo Tango : 08-16-2012 at 11:21 AM.
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  #5  
Old 08-16-2012, 11:20 AM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Works now!

Dave

Last edited by David Paule : 08-16-2012 at 12:30 PM.
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  #6  
Old 08-16-2012, 11:21 AM
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zilik zilik is offline
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Location: Pine Junction, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Echo Tango View Post
I'm running a 2x gun and it works fine for setting AD3 rivets, but when i get into the AD4s, I can't get the rivets to set properly. On flush rivets, for instance the heads become flattened (50 psi) before the shop head forms and if I turn the pressure up to 60psi the gun is completely uncontrollable (50 is even a bit jumpy).

I am pushing very firmly on the manufacture head with the gun and just letting the bucking bar sit loosely but securely over the shop head. This works GREAT for the AD3 rivets. Very consistent and "pretty" rivets. It takes a good 10+ seconds of trigger pulling to form a marginal shop head on an AD4 size, and by that time the flush heads look a bit "pancaked."

What am I doing wrong here? If I lower the PSI, they won't set at all and tend to work-harden and if I raise the PSI the gun jumps around wildly. Should I buy a 3x gun? I'm getting sick of (but really good at) drilling out rivets. VERY frustrating to the point that I'm avoiding the workshop. I'm about one more bad rivet from throwing my entire project in the trash.
A 2X rivet gun will drive -4 rivets just fine. The gun is smaller and easier to use than a 3x. While some builders adjust the air pressure depending on rivet size I never do. I prefer leaving the line pressure at 90PSI and adjusting the air flow at the gun. (http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=957) For -4 rivets the regulator would be wide open and closed down for -3 rivets. It should only take about a second to smash -3 or -4 rivets. A swivel flush rivet set helps too. Practice makes perfect.
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Last edited by zilik : 08-16-2012 at 11:24 AM.
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  #7  
Old 08-16-2012, 11:23 AM
Echo Tango Echo Tango is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Paule View Post
Sorry, Google asks for a sign-in. Since I don't want to do that, the photos are blocked from me.

Dave
i re-uploaded them
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  #8  
Old 08-16-2012, 11:24 AM
Echo Tango Echo Tango is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zilik View Post
A 2X rivet gun will drive -4 rivets just fine. The gun is smaller and easier to use than a 3x. While some builders adjust the air pressure depending on rivet size I never do. I prefer leaving the line pressure at 90PSI and adjusting the air flow at the gun. (http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=957) For -4 rivets the regulator would be wide open and closed down for -3 rivets. It should only take about a second to smash -3 or -4 rivets. Practice makes perfect.
i'll look at getting the regulator. like i said, i can set -3s with my eyes closed. -4s are just extremely stubborn.

and the swivel flush set.
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  #9  
Old 08-16-2012, 11:28 AM
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zilik zilik is offline
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The rivets in your pictures are definitely overworked, but you knew that. You can back rivet these just like the stiffeners in the control surfaces.
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Gary "Seismo" Zilik
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RV-6A N99PZ S/N 22993 SOLD
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  #10  
Old 08-16-2012, 11:31 AM
Echo Tango Echo Tango is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zilik View Post
The rivets in your pictures are definitely overworked, but you knew that. You can back rivet these just like the stiffeners in the control surfaces.
I'm going to get a back-riveting plate soon, but this doesn't help as I won't be able to back-rivet every rivet. what am I doing wrong?

As you can see the manufactured heads are over-worked and the shop-heads are under-driven. What gives?
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