DB15 for wing connector

[sahrens]

I am preparing to run my wiring out to the various components in the wings. Specific to each wing are LED Nav lights, leading edge landing lights, wigwams in the tips, strobes in the tips and in the left wing heated pitot tube, right wing will have the servo.

All together (minus) the strobes it is nine wires, 18 AWG or lower. I am thinking of using a DB 15 connector at the wing root as a method of connecting wing runs to the fuselage. The highest amp is 15 for the Dynon pitot tube and the lowest is 0.5 for the LED Nav lights.

I am fairly certain the DB 15 can handle the load. Anything I am missing? Any better ideas?

[ccrawford]

I don't think a DB15 can handle that kinda current. Aren't they usually rated for 5-7 amps?

You might consider something like this:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...JL0aYVYWt6k%3d

Each pin is rated for 13 A but you wouldn't want to max it out in a connector.

I haven't wired up by Dynon pitot at the wing root yet, but I will probably just splice the two wires together with a butt splice. My other low-amp wires are in the connector mentioned above, but is mounted one bay inboard of the fuse walls. (There is no room to mount it between the fuse and the wing).

[FredMagare]

I don't know the length of your wire run but you may want to recheck your math.... It looks like a 15A load with a wiring run of 15ft might require a wire size of 12 or 10 AWG. In any case, a DB connector would be unsuitable for that current in my opinion.

The AMP connector mentioned above would be ideal or you could try Mate-n-Lock connectors: http://terminaltown.com/Pages/Page13.html

Good luck.

[rapid_ascent]

As others have said the 15A current is too high for a single pin in a D connector. You could use multiple pins in parallel, but this would probably be a little messy interconnecting to your required wire size.

You might consider some type of circular connector. These connectors come with mixed types of contacts so you could get one with some large power contacts that you could use for your high current wiring. They are also easier to mount since you can drill a hole vs the D shape that is required for the D connector.

[cfiidon]

I used two terminal boards on each side for my wing wiring. They are cheap, easy, and as you won't be disconnecting on a regular basis they are appropriate.

The forward terminal board I put on with machine screws and nuts as it is hidden by the wing root. The aft one I put on with pro-seal.

Don

[sahrens]

I have been researching other connectors and I agree my math was not correct. The cannon plug listed here

http://www.ittcannon.com/product.aspx?id=2658

is one option. Thanks for the other suggestions, I will research those as well.

[Captain Avgas]

I also used terminal boards, located inside the fuselage for better weather protection. The photo shows the right wing with 16 wires and equipment similar to yours (with 7 wires for the roll servo seperated on one terminal). . Each wire has been labelled and the labels protected inside clear heat-shrink.

Because there is no plug I only required a small grommetted hole in the side of the fuselage to pull the wires (with crimped ring connectors) through.

The photo was taken before I finished bundling the wires and securing them, but you will get the idea.

I attached the terminals to a rib, not to the floor, to keep them high and dry in case of water getting into the fuselage.

I decided on this approach after helping a friend who had to remove the wings from his RV after an off field landing. He had no connectors at the wing root so we had to cut all of his wing wires. That ultimately created a lot of problems and subsequent work for him.



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[w1curtis]

DB pins and connectors are designed for the largest, 20 AWG wire. Recommend you look to the Tyco/AMP Series 1 CPC connectors now standard on the RV-14 for wing wiring interconnect. Part number 206036-1 for the receptacle and 206037-1 for the plug shell size 17, pin count 16.



Available from Mouser and eBay.

[sglynn]

Bob, this looks like a good idea. I'm just now wiring my wings and wondering what happens at the root or wing to body interface. So did you merely run all the wires from the wing in thru the large hole and connect them to these strips? No other connectors? I like it. thanks

Originally Posted by Captain Avgas

I also used terminal boards, located inside the fuselage for better weather protection. The photo shows the right wing with 16 wires and equipment similar to yours (with 7 wires for the roll servo seperated on one terminal). . Each wire has been labelled and the labels protected inside clear heat-shrink.

Because there is no plug I only required a small grommetted hole in the side of the fuselage to pull the wires (with crimped ring connectors) through.

The photo was taken before I finished bundling the wires and securing them, but you will get the idea.

I attached the terminals to a rib, not to the floor, to keep them high and dry in case of water getting into the fuselage.

I decided on this approach after helping a friend who had to remove the wings from his RV after an off field landing. He had no connectors at the wing root so we had to cut all of his wing wires. That ultimately created a lot of problems and subsequent work for him.



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[chaskuss]

Originally Posted by sahrens

I am preparing to run my wiring out to the various components in the wings. Specific to each wing are LED Nav lights, leading edge landing lights, wigwams in the tips, strobes in the tips and in the left wing heated pitot tube, right wing will have the servo.

All together (minus) the strobes it is nine wires, 18 AWG or lower. I am thinking of using a DB 15 connector at the wing root as a method of connecting wing runs to the fuselage. The highest amp is 15 for the Dynon pitot tube and the lowest is 0.5 for the LED Nav lights.

I am fairly certain the DB 15 can handle the load. Anything I am missing? Any better ideas?

Scott,
One thing is obvious to me, by your questions. You really have not educated yourself about proper aircraft wiring. You really need to obtain and READ Bob Nuckholl's book, "The AeroElectric Connection"
First, as others have mentioned, DSub style connectors are good for 5 amps MAX! Second, they are not weather proof. They are not a good choice for even low amp circuits, f you plan on placing the connector where there is any possibility of it ever getting wet. Other listers have given you good tips regarding water proof connectors. DSubs are nice for stuff like wiring to removable stick grips, or avionics deep inside the [dry] cockpit.
Screw block connectors are very old [50+ years] technology. Bob N does not like them, due to their propensity to loosen [vibration] over time. This can cause you severe headaches with troubleshooting weird electrical problems [slightly loose connections] in the future. Take advantage of Bob N's advice. The man has 30+ years experience as a professional electrical aircraft engineer.
Part of your "contract" with the FAA, regarding building experimental category aircraft, is the "education" aspect. Sorry about the rant. I'll get off the soap box now.
Charlie