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07-18-2012, 08:43 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Howell, MI
Posts: 297
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service loops extra wire
I did a quick search and couldn't find anything about how to support all those service loops of wire going to the panel? I suppose one could use those sticky back plastic anchors & tie wraps, or, velcro strips. Adel clamps would have to be attached up the subpanel to prevent the wire loops from hanging down.
I am envisioning a big mess of extra wire and of course the goal is to keep everything neat and tidy so wires can be located in the future but adequately supported.
I have a pretty simple panel but with the engine info system, EFIS, and auto pilot there are plenty of wires.
Anyone? Pictures are always great.
Jim
RV9A
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07-19-2012, 03:29 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: lake charles, La.
Posts: 699
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Have a look at the electrical pages on my build. I used a trough behind the instrument panel and routed wiring in it. The cover is removable and extra service loops can be folded inside for a clean look and safe place for them.
bird
http//mykitlog.com/tcb328
__________________
Bird
rv8 entire airframe at airport now, painting done, intersection and gear upper and lower fairings done, maybe order engine around first of year or before the next rate increase.
"to fly is a privilege that I am so thankful to God for"
http://www.mykitlog.com/tcb328/
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07-19-2012, 05:57 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Howell, MI
Posts: 297
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trough
Bird.....where did you get that trough for the wires? Pretty slick.
Jim
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07-20-2012, 07:54 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 5,685
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Service loops
The standard used to be, each wire should be long enough in the original installation to allow it to be cut off and re-terminated three times. Aircraft Spruce still sells rolls of wire bundle lacing tape (flat nylon string impregnated with wax) that can be used to make any wire mess into a compact, neat wire bundle and service loops are not a problem. Cut off an abundant length of string for each tie. Double the string so one end is a doubled back piece of string and the end is the two loose ends. Wrap the doubled back end of the piece of string around the bundle then loop the doubled back end over itself and stick the two loose ends through the loop just created and pull the lasso down snug against the wires (do not over tighten as insulation cold flow can occur under extreme pressure). Work the excess size of the slip loop out so it is tight around the string that is passing through it. Tie a regular square knot up snugly against the slip loop to secure the tie around the wires and cut off the excess length of the string ends (leave maybe a 1/4"). One tie is done. Move an inch or so down the bundle and repeat until it looks the way you want it with no chaffing, etc. and you are done. It may seem a little expensive but a roll of the wire bundle lacing tape will normally last for years of the original build and the inevitable modifications.
Bob Axsom
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07-20-2012, 11:19 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 875
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Axsom
The standard used to be, each wire should be long enough in the original installation to allow it to be cut off and re-terminated three times. Aircraft Spruce still sells rolls of wire bundle lacing tape (flat nylon string impregnated with wax) that can be used to make any wire mess into a compact, neat wire bundle and service loops are not a problem. Cut off an abundant length of string for each tie. Double the string so one end is a doubled back piece of string and the end is the two loose ends. Wrap the doubled back end of the piece of string around the bundle then loop the doubled back end over itself and stick the two loose ends through the loop just created and pull the lasso down snug against the wires (do not over tighten as insulation cold flow can occur under extreme pressure). Work the excess size of the slip loop out so it is tight around the string that is passing through it. Tie a regular square knot up snugly against the slip loop to secure the tie around the wires and cut off the excess length of the string ends (leave maybe a 1/4"). One tie is done. Move an inch or so down the bundle and repeat until it looks the way you want it with no chaffing, etc. and you are done. It may seem a little expensive but a roll of the wire bundle lacing tape will normally last for years of the original build and the inevitable modifications.
Bob Axsom
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And lacing cord is soooooo much nicer when you have to stick your arm through a bundle of wires to get to something and you don't want all those sharp ends of cut off plastic wire ties slicing you up.
__________________
RV-8 IO-360 (Bought)
RV-6 O-360 C/S (Sold)
Walkman aka Flame Out
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07-20-2012, 11:46 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,256
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http://www.hq.nasa.gov/office/codeq/doctree/87394.pdf
has details on what Bob describes, as well as how to properly do single running lockstitches and spot ties.
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Steve "Flying Scotsman"
Santa Clarita, CA
PP-ASEL, ASES, Instrument Airplane
RV-7A N660WS flying!
#8,000
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07-20-2012, 03:03 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: lake charles, La.
Posts: 699
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wiring duct
Jim, I got my duct at http://www.automationdirect.com I got mine in blue but they have other colors and many sizes to choose from. They come with a solid cover also. It makes a neat way to run the main trunk.
bird
__________________
Bird
rv8 entire airframe at airport now, painting done, intersection and gear upper and lower fairings done, maybe order engine around first of year or before the next rate increase.
"to fly is a privilege that I am so thankful to God for"
http://www.mykitlog.com/tcb328/
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