Tips for building light

[humptybump]

I'm. Of sure why he other thread was closed. It may happen here too. Anyway, two tips for how to build light ...

Battery - there are some new technologies for lighter batteries.

Wood prop - it was suggested if a Catto might be lighter than a wood prop. I can say that Craig just finished a "bolt on replacement" for my Aymur Demuth. The wood prop is a few pounds lighter that Craig's composite (not that I'm complaining).

Other tangible ways to stay light?

[FresnoR]

Jog to and from the airport in a sweatsuit every time you build or fly.

[Ironflight]

No wheel pants or fairings. Lighter tires (fewer plies). One Comm radio, remote very lightweight transponder (the Trig weighs almost nothing). Fuses only - no breakers or VP system. SD-8 alternator? That would save a few pounds for sure!

How about leaving the wingtips off and just closing them with flat aluminum plates? Fibergalss isn't all that light. Oh - isn't the taildragger lighter than the tricycle? You could put a lightweight DJM tailwheel on it and save another 14 ounces....

[Snowflake]

I'd still like to see the path to an 888 lb empty weight for a -6.

Single Skyview (or GRT, etc) with both flight and EMS info.
Remote transponder and com, controlled via Skyview.
Lightweight interior.
Wood prop.
No paint.
Tailwheel.
Slider vs. tip-up - Any weight savings there?
Lightweight starter.
Lightweight Li-ion battery.
No carpeting or interior panels.
Lightweight foam/fabric seat cushions.

That's all I can think of!

[N941WR]

Check out this thread on tips for building light.

[Kyle Boatright]

Originally Posted by Snowflake

I'd still like to see the path to an 888 lb empty weight for a -6.

Single Skyview (or GRT, etc) with both flight and EMS info.
Remote transponder and com, controlled via Skyview.
Lightweight interior.
Wood prop.
No paint.
Tailwheel.
Slider vs. tip-up - Any weight savings there?
Lightweight starter.
Lightweight Li-ion battery.
No carpeting or interior panels.
Lightweight foam/fabric seat cushions.

That's all I can think of!

I've looked at mine time and time again with the idea of cutting weight. It weighs 1031 pounds with a light prop and engine, a PC 680 battery, and a lightweight alternator. I'd guess there are 40 pounds of paint, primer, and filler in the airplane. That weight could have been saved. I could get rid of 9 pounds if I swapped starters, 5 pounds if I took out the carpet, and probably 5 pounds of stuff in the panel if I switched to glass. After that, I could save another 10 pounds by eliminating all external lights. So let's say all of that stuff is 70 lbs. If I eliminated all of it, the airplane would weigh 960 lbs, or thereabouts. That's roughly Van's factory weight claim for an RV-6.

At that point, what is left is the opportunity for a lighter (than 13 lb) battery, a composite sump, and eliminating the comm radio, transponder, and intercom. Beyond that, you have to start leaving airframe components (wheel pants, wingtips, etc) behind to save more weight.

[bkthomps]

stop going out for $100 hamburgers and pancake breakfasts

[dealfair]

Originally Posted by bkthomps

stop going out for $100 hamburgers and pancake breakfasts

Yep, the engine & my fat keester are the heaviest loads in mine.

[humptybump]

Using some of the new glass instruments will make a difference. When it comes available, I'll be removing my DFC-250 AP head unit, electric DG and electric Horizon - replacing with a Gemini AP. This will remove about 8+ lbs.

... or ...

going the next step and removing (almost) all of the individual engine instruments for an engine monitor. This might remove an additional 4+ lbs.

When my battery gives out, I'll be checking in with rocketbob to get his opinion on the new LiFePO4 (or similar) batteries.

[panhandler1956]

If you are building an -8:

Grove aluminum gear

For everyone else and RV-8s:

NO PAINT!

Also skip the extra electrical system/backup battery. Most new glass has internal batteries to keep things powered. Unless you are running electronic ignition.