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  #1  
Old 06-28-2012, 01:49 AM
ron sterba ron sterba is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: salem Oregon
Posts: 1,023
Wink suggestions, 9A wing tip installation

Ok wings are done and wired but not fitted to fuselage. If any of these are out of order let me know.
Wing upside down on table.
Jig W930 on bellcrank
Aileron laid level with wing
trimmed fiberglass edge of tip to fit wing skin into indent in wing tip.

Would you put in the two ribs now in the aft fiberglass tip? Proseal with rivets or epoxy with rivets? Add a foam/epoxy rib midway in tip.
I would like to put in nutplates for removalable tips.

IN What order? Backing strip aluminum, proseal, top of wing tip clecoed in first or bottom? Align tip aft edge with aileron, Drill #40 ,match drill wing skin holes into fiberglass tip or with allumium strip prosealed on backside? Dimple fiberglass for rivets with a 100 degree stone mandrel.

My thinking is that I should turn wing over to topside up to fasten tip on first or put in wing cradle (leading edge down). read manual Pg 7-15 and 16 Dwgs 9,10,11 &15. would like your take on the installation if you have any tips, much appreciated if you would please. Thanks Guys. Ron
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  #2  
Old 06-28-2012, 08:02 AM
PaulR PaulR is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Geneva, AL
Posts: 491
Default My Take

I just finished the wing tips in the last week or so. My take on it is that I wouldn't put the ribs in till the wings are on for the last time. IF i had it to do over again, I wouldn't have drilled the holes in the wing tips till the wings were on and the ailerons and flaps set for the "final" time. As it is, I had to split the trailing edge of my tips, like so many do, to get them to line up perfectly with the ailerons in their neutral position.

It's my belief that if I had waited until the ailerons were set to drill the holes, that I could have "rotated" the tips enough to keep from having to split them.

All that said, it wasn't a huge chore to do but would have been impossible without removing the ribs in the tip had I already put them in.

My .02 worth.
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  #3  
Old 06-28-2012, 08:40 AM
DennisRhodes DennisRhodes is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Taylorsville, Ga
Posts: 797
Default Ditto on what PaulR says

I had to do the same and would wait until I could get tip line up with the aileron trailing edge before drilling in tips. Also don't use anything larger than -4 screws on the very thin flange area of the wing to tip attachment . the 4 nut plates are more expensive but size is correct.
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  #4  
Old 06-28-2012, 11:00 AM
ron sterba ron sterba is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: salem Oregon
Posts: 1,023
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Dennis and Paul thanks for the heads up. I'll take the screws and nut plates back and order #4's. I'll hold up on the tips for now. Did you use aluminum backing strips for all the nut plates? I read between the words of your guys reply. It helps.

Thanks guys
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  #5  
Old 06-28-2012, 11:26 AM
DennisRhodes DennisRhodes is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Taylorsville, Ga
Posts: 797
Default yes

Yes , I would highly recommend using an Alum backer under the nutplates.
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  #6  
Old 06-28-2012, 11:47 AM
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bruceh bruceh is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ramona, CA
Posts: 2,368
Default

I fitted my wing tips while they were in the cradle, leading edges down. This made it very easy to get the trailing edges lined up.
Use the alignment tool on the outer wing rib to set the neutral aileron position correctly, then use the metal bellcrank jig to set the length of the control tube to the aileron, then you can determine where the trailing edge of the tips should align.

Dialog and photos on my web site.
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  #7  
Old 06-28-2012, 11:57 AM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,027
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceh View Post
I fitted my wing tips while they were in the cradle, leading edges down. This made it very easy to get the trailing edges lined up.
Use the alignment tool on the outer wing rib to set the neutral aileron position correctly, then use the metal bellcrank jig to set the length of the control tube to the aileron, then you can determine where the trailing edge of the tips should align.

Dialog and photos on my web site.
Good tip.
That is what the tip rib template is for.
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  #8  
Old 06-28-2012, 12:33 PM
PaulR PaulR is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Geneva, AL
Posts: 491
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Bruce is right with his method. I did the same thing but it will be a lot easier if you have some help doing it that way. I didn't have that available when I did mine and just didn't have enough hands!!

As far as the screws go, I used #6 which I think is what the plans show in the alternate method and I did NOT use the aluminum strips. Not flying yet, but they appear to be very solid. I even had to drill a couple out for the installation of a VOR antenna and the FG wasn't a problem.
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RV-9A 91300
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  #9  
Old 06-28-2012, 11:08 PM
ron sterba ron sterba is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: salem Oregon
Posts: 1,023
Default

Thanks Bruce. I liked your pictures and I will put the wing back in the cradle to mount the tips. I found that with the wing on the table I was getting down on my hands and knees to check under the tip. What a pain. Liked the comments in your progress to the finished piece.and Thanks Paul. I noticed in looking at the VANS Plans that the nutplates are done as you did them. I have always been a tank builder so I 'll go with a strip if I have it handy. Thanks Guys
Ron in Oregon
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  #10  
Old 06-28-2012, 11:26 PM
jimgreen jimgreen is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Vancouver island, BC Canada
Posts: 385
Default

I used #6 screws with no problems whatsoever. Looks good too.
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