Garmin GTX 327 and SL-40 installation trays

[Michael Burbidge]

I'm trying to figure out how the trays for the Garmin GTX 327 and SL-40 work and how I should install them. The installation manuals say next to nothing on this topic. Here's a picture to help with my questions.

http://api.photoshop.com/v1.0/accoun...=1339816398000

The bottom tray is the GTX 327 transponder tray. Several question about this tray.

First, how do you line the tray up with the panel. The tray has tabs along the front, right, bottom. These tabs extend forward about 3/16 of an inch from the rest of the tray. Are the front of these tabs supposed to be even with the front surface of the panel?

Second, are the big counter-sunk holes labeled D the holes that one would use to attach the tray to the rack that holds the trays. Obviously I have to build the rack. They are big holes. What size screw did you use in these holes.

What are the holes labeled # for?

The top tray is the tray for the SL-40 COM radio. It has several different holes. I assume that one would use the holes labeled A and B for mounting to the rack. Maybe just the ones labeled A. These are not counter-sunk, but they are indented on the inside from the middle part of the tray so that you could probably get a counter sunk screw in there and it would not extend past the middle part of the tray. If you use any other holes besides the holes labeled A it would be difficult to get a screw driver on these.

Which holes did you use for mounting the tray to the rack? What kind and size of screws did you use.

For this tray the instructions do say the the front edge of the tray should be flush with the front face of the instrument panel.

Thanks for any help and/or pictures of your installation with these instrument trays.

Michael-

[N18RA]

On the transponder rack,,
Line the lip on the bottom of the front face with the front of the panel.
Any of the holes labeled D can be for mounting. Normally the two on the left of the picture(the panel side of the rack) would be attached to an angle that is attached to the panel. The others can be used to tie the rear of the stack together.
#6 screws should be enough to hold the tray in place. #8 screws will fit as well and can be used if you want.

On the sl-40,,
The left edge of the rack( radio insertion side) should be flush with the panel face.
The left A-holes,,heehee,, would be mounted to the same angle as the transponder rack(if stacking them).
The B-holes would be used to tie the back of the rack to the others in the rack.
Don't use the C-holes. They would just hang the radio on the sides and not allow it to slide in to the rack.
The right A-holes,,heehee,, won't be used unless you are using them to support the back of the stack to a former under the glare shield.

[rleffler]

I have an sl40 and gtx327 on the bottom of my stack as well. These links will take you to mykitlog site. For some reason omy my iPad I could get the direct URL to the photos.

Here's a link to my stack mounted in the panel. I made a little tray to support the rear of the sl40 tray.

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displa...=141540&row=22

This link has some interesting views of the mounting rails. Notice the gap between the rails and the bezels. You need to allow for the thickness of you panel.

Another view of the stack right after Geoff Combs cut the panel insert for me.

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displa...=140636&row=29

Either the gtn650 or the sl40 had a lip on the bottom that stuck out a bit. It's been awhile and I don't recall which one. Also be sure to pay attention to the mounting hole locations on both the tray and your panel. I used nut plates installed on the mounting rail. My rails weren't thick enough to cut threads in them. I didn't have many options, so I had to have my panel insert cut

At the bottom of this link is a photo of the nut plate installation on the mounting rails.

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displa...=141221&row=24

[Michael Burbidge]

I put the radios in the middle of the panel. The SL-40 will require a hole in the sub-panel because it is so long. It looks like I will have to trim 1/4 - 1/2 inch off the bottom of the F-697 channel to make this hole. That would include the bottom rivet. Is that ok? Did others have to do that also?

Thanks for the responses,

Michael-