Coax cables to coils

[N8RV]

Originally Posted by G3i Ignition

I use RG400 coax along with my ignition system. In my G3i installation manual pg. 24 shows a example on how to assemble terminal ends with crimp/heat shrink terminals to re-enforce the connection. Link:http://www.g3ignition.com/s1s2_manual.pdf

Yeah, Thomas, that would be a big improvement over a simple crimp connector. It's important that the union of the center conductor insulator sleeve and the connector have NO exposed, unsupported wire. That's the weak link, and right where mine broke.

I'm betting that re-routing my coax so that it penetrates the baffles in a straight line to the coils, and ensuring that that weak link is solid and has no play will eliminate any worries of future wire breakage.

I need to find some Fast-On connectors with the sleeves or buy some adhesive heatshrink tubing like Dan suggested ...

[LifeofReiley]

Originally Posted by N8RV

Yeah, Thomas, that would be a big improvement over a simple crimp connector. It's important that the union of the center conductor insulator sleeve and the connector have NO exposed, unsupported wire. That's the weak link, and right where mine broke.

I'm betting that re-routing my coax so that it penetrates the baffles in a straight line to the coils, and ensuring that that weak link is solid and has no play will eliminate any worries of future wire breakage.

I need to find some Fast-On connectors with the sleeves or buy some adhesive heatshrink tubing like Dan suggested ...

I've used the method Thomas from G3i Ignition describes in his manual and it works very well. If the center lead breaks on a LS unit, you have a good chance the box has internal damage again.

[Lars]

Here are some (sort of crappy) photos of what I did. The center conductor and shield are grafted to tefzel wire. Those joints are covered with adhesive lined heat shrink, and immobilized against the back baffle with adel clamps. Tefzel wires, terminated with 90 degree Tyco/AMP terminals also with heat shrink at the wire end, have long service loops to eliminate any chance that the coax junctions ever see tension or vibration.

[N8RV]

Lars, those 90-degree connectors are just the ticket for my installation. However, given that I'm a rules follower, it never occurred to me to divert from the letter of the instructions. As I recall, the instructions said to not cover the shield wire strands with heat shrink. No clue why.

As for damage to the module from the wire breaking, it seems to be working just fine. I will keep an eye on it, though.

Gotta look for angled connectors now ...

[Lars]

Originally Posted by N8RV

Lars, those 90-degree connectors are just the ticket for my installation. However, given that I'm a rules follower, it never occurred to me to divert from the letter of the instructions. As I recall, the instructions said to not cover the shield wire strands with heat shrink. No clue why.

As for damage to the module from the wire breaking, it seems to be working just fine. I will keep an eye on it, though.

Gotta look for angled connectors now ...

Don, you are probably thinking about the note in the installation instructions regarding RG58, which will wither under the gaze of a heat gun:

Do not use heat shrink on the RG-58 wire (black, primary ignition wire used before summer 2002)

RG400 insulation can take the heat.

As for the 90? connectors, they are Tyco/AMP 3-520133-2 "Ultra-Fast" terminals. The terminals are cheap, but unfortunately the official, correct crimper isn't- around $400 as I recall. Lucky me, we had one at work. There may be an alternate crimper that's less expensive but I haven't looked. They were a nice solution for me due to the proximity of that back baffle.