P-mag install, LED does not light up and the fix I found

Mike D · #1 05-20-2012, 03:13 PM

You most likely won't have this issue when installing your p-mag but just incase you do...

Keep in mind anodizing is non-conductive.

On the second p-mag install, (first had no issues) I could not get the LED to light that would signify it was in setup mode. Tested the 12v+ and the ground. Both were okay. The issue turned out to be the p-lead was not grounding because the anodize on th mag body was not allowing the circut to complete. I tested running a pig tail back to the engine block and all was good. Removed the pig tale and again no LED light. Sanded off the anodize off in a local area under the clamp and all was good.

Another way to solve this would be to ground the return on the P-lead to the firewall.

This is what I found and as always YMMV.

scard · #2 05-20-2012, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike D

You most likely won't have this issue when installing your p-mag but just incase you do...

Keep in mind anodizing is non-conductive.

On the second p-mag install, (first had no issues) I could not get the LED to light that would signify it was in setup mode. Tested the 12v+ and the ground. Both were okay. The issue turned out to be the p-lead was not grounding because the anodize on th mag body was not allowing the circut to complete. I tested running a pig tail back to the engine block and all was good. Removed the pig tale and again no LED light. Sanded off the anodize off in a local area under the clamp and all was good.

Another way to solve this would be to ground the return on the P-lead to the firewall.

This is what I found and as always YMMV.

Thanks for sharing that! It really would take the perfect set of conditions such as you found, but hmmmmm...
fyi. I was one of the early people with serious issues that had to bail, but I've continued to pay attention to hopeful progress. Tanya is beating me over the head on a daily basis about my future direction, but you just might see my RV8 engine on display at OSH with p-mags on it!

LifeofReiley · #3 05-20-2012, 05:40 PM

I've always loved the idea of PMags, then the moving parts/wear items come to mind. IMHO, Lightspeed Plasma II Plus with the fixed crank plate is the way to go. YMMV.

flickroll · #4 05-20-2012, 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike D

Keep in mind anodizing is non-conductive.

Which is why the instructions say you MUST have a wired ground from the connector block to the engine case.

N941WR · #5 05-21-2012, 06:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flickroll

Which is why the instructions say you MUST have a wired ground from the connector block to the engine case.

Exactly what I was going to post!

PS. Do NOT bolt the grounds to the same case stud. If that one stud comes out, you might have an "issue" with both ignitions.

Mike D · #6 05-21-2012, 09:08 PM

Well, it is proven once again I need to read and understand the instructions.

It does say right on page 5 of the install instructions, that you need to ground pin 1 to the engine block. Funny enough, I did do this. But it does not say you need to do the same for the p-lead return. But I should have understood this needs to be done from the instructions on pin 1. Slicks are not this way. The return just goes to the screw on the mag case.

Live and learn.