RV-3B Dave's in Colorado

[ppilotmike]

Originally Posted by David Paule

Incidentally, it was for the fun of sorting through these issues that I am building the slow-build RV-3B. Gotta say I'm getting my money's worth.

Dave

You're sick! ...says the guy building a slow build 10. Not the same ballpark, but definitely the same sport...

[AlphaCharlieBravo]

Nice Mike!
A Pulp Fiction reference

[David Paule]

Second time in two years, I like the consistency. For the last event, refer back to post #31.

Here's Santa's sleigh and the green reindeer out in front of my hangar today:



Once we opened the door and hauled the goodies to the back of the hangar I got this photo of the Finish Kit - that's the fuselage kit to the left, and the wing box in the far background against the wall:



I've lately been ordering the sole-source items and this, the Vetterman exhaust and a few other things are on the list. Since I ordered a Todd's canopy, the canopy wasn't included as part of this finish kit. Neither was the spinner nor the tires. Why not the tires? Simply because I won't need them for at least a year and I can get them any time and they'll be fresh.

There is no FWF kit for the RV-3B, but I did include a few of the known needs, like the baffle kit and the FAB.

Initial impressions are that the fiberglass work is decent (don't know how it'll fit) and the kit for the baffles is new-style: pre-punched, trimmed, bent and with step-by-step instructions. Super!

Dave

[rockwoodrv9]

Pre Punched! Holy **** Dave, are you selling out!! haha!
I am finally back in Colorado for the holidays. I hope to get down to Denver to say hello to everyone.

I have just about settled on the Skyview for my panel. I really like what I read about how the GX3 autopilot is very nice, but the Skyview still looks like it fits me better.

Have fun and keep posting pictures of what real build is! Talk later.

[David Paule]

Both tanks are now clecoed and still in place. I haven't unclecoed them yet. Here's the right tank:



The baffle will get drilled after I remove the tanks from the wing. Didn't want to risk damaging the spar.

I've started on the outboard skins. Having the tank skins inboard lets me match them. Since the outboard ribs don't extend to the leading edge (they stop an inch aft) I made some wooden braces to prevent pulling the leading edge down too far.



The vertical slot is to let me slip them over the threaded rod that hold the nose ribs in place. This way I can use one set on both wings.

Initially, I used the Howe Fittings and basically the same process I'd used on the tanks to hold the outboard skins in place. But no joy. For some reason, when I used them, the leading edge would consistently be about 1/2" below the leading edge of the tank skins. After a lot of head-scratching I determined that not using the Howe Fittings seems to work, and here's where I left the left outboard skin at close of shop tonight.



I'll have to untape the Howe Fittings before proceeding. Duct tape - builder's friend.

[longranger]

David,

I like your rib stiffeners! I'm going to copy that if/when I ever pick back up on my HRII project.

[ppilotmike]

Originally Posted by ppilotmike

You're sick! ...says the guy building a slow build 10. Not the same ballpark, but definitely the same sport...

Well Dave,

As you know, I've recently aquired a partially completed RV-3B kit, which I plan to work on alongside my 10 build. I guess whatever "sickness" you have is apparently catching...

[David Paule]

I went back to the right-hand outboard skin and, using the Howe Fittings and a batten, got it to fit pretty well, so I went and drilled that skin to the ribs. These holes are drilled blind so I earned a few more gray beard hairs here.

Following that, I had the spice strips, that go between the tank and that outboard leading edge skin, in place and drilled to the ribs. I went ahead and drilled them to the tanks, then removed and deburred and dimpled them.

Here I'm trial-fitting a nutplate to the left one. Van's calls them "plate nuts" but as far as I know, no one else does. In addition to the cleco clamp, a #30 cleco does a nice job. Better, in fact, and that's what I'll use when I drill them, I think.



Dave

[David Paule]

Just wanted to mention here that I'm finally past the leading edge shape issues that I've had. Now I can move on with the wing. I've got a few related things, trimming edges, mostly, and then I'll be able to do something NEW for a change.

To David Howe - thanks again. Your advice was hugely helpful.

Dave

[David Paule]

The tank stiffeners on the RV-3B wing tanks are 3/4 x 3/4 x .032 angle. I'm now making the parts that go inside the left tank, starting with these. I made a set that's mostly stock (I beveled the upper corners) and they weighed 153 grams for the set. These are the top batch.

Then I made a set from .016 that I bent up, adding a short flange to the top. With this flange and in spite of the thinner material, these have the same stiffness as the stock version. These weigh 99.0 grams and are the bottom set.



The difference is nearly 2 ounces per tank. Worth going after.

Dave