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  #1  
Old 04-18-2012, 06:54 PM
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BGordon BGordon is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Burleson, TX
Posts: 97
Default How close is too close with close tolerance bolts

Good evening everyone,
I was working on my f104 bulkhead for my 7 and when I inserted the close tolerance bolts they were tight. Tight enough that it is going to take a mallet to insert them all the way, and after I install the wings to drill the rear spar and the mount coming off of the fuel tank it is going to require a mallet and probably a punch to get them out.
Is this normal? I know I am not supposed to ream or drill but I was wondering if others had this problem before I contact Vans.
thanks,
Brandon
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  #2  
Old 04-18-2012, 06:54 PM
bkthomps bkthomps is offline
 
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Location: Destin
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Default

so close that some people freeze them and then heat the holes before inserting them
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  #3  
Old 04-18-2012, 07:06 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Don't use your close tolerance bolts for fit-up. Use hardware store stuff and only use the close tolerance bolts for final assembly. You may have to use a mallet then...
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  #4  
Old 04-18-2012, 07:18 PM
roee roee is offline
 
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Location: San Diego, CA, U.S.A.
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Exclamation

Do not enlarge the holes. And do not use the close tolerance bolts for initial fitting. You will use those only once, to put the wings on for the final time, and they will hopefully never need to come out. And yes, you will need to lubricate, freeze, and tap the bolts in with a mallet. It's an interference fit, meaning that the hole is actually slightly smaller than the bolt, and it is supposed to be that way by design.

For initial fitting, use regular bolts that will slip fit into the holes (SAE or hardware store bolts are fine).

I believe this, and the whole wing fitting process, is described in detail in the builders manual. This is a critical area that you really don't want to screw up. So be sure to read up, ask questions as needed, and understand the process fully before you do it.
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  #5  
Old 04-18-2012, 09:18 PM
SteinAir SteinAir is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 2,471
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As others have said, you'll need to buy a second set, because you shouldn't use them for fitting....get some cheapo hardware store bolts and sand down a bullet on the nose and also to get rid of the sharp threads. When you finally put them in, a rivet gun is way quicker than a mallet!

Cheers,
Stein
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  #6  
Old 04-18-2012, 09:44 PM
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frazitl frazitl is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 488
Default Check out my prior post below

when you're ready to drill your rear spars. Our club has a special tool for rent that does a great job at drilling a quality hole for the rear spar attach bolt...

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=74770
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  #7  
Old 04-19-2012, 02:08 AM
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Andrew M Andrew M is offline
 
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Location: Secluded Lake,Alaska (AK49)
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Default Referance

AC 43-13.2B para 7-39 has some guidance.
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-9 empennage
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  #8  
Old 04-19-2012, 09:46 PM
Rupester Rupester is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Mahomet, Illinois
Posts: 2,195
Default those temporary hardware store bolts ...

...go in even easier of you chuck them in a drill press and polish/sand with emery cloth. Then they work really easily for temporary locator bolts. that way you reduce the risk of galling the holes in the center section or wing spar.
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  #9  
Old 04-20-2012, 07:41 AM
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Walt Walt is offline
 
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Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rupester View Post
...go in even easier of you chuck them in a drill press and polish/sand with emery cloth. Then they work really easily for temporary locator bolts. that way you reduce the risk of galling the holes in the center section or wing spar.
I go one step further and grind the threads off to make "bullets" out of them. That way you will not damage the holes with the treads.
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