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03-27-2012, 03:28 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 522
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Flap Actuator Safety Wire Question
Practicing safety wiring now that I drilled the actuator shaft and I don't know if either of these are ok or neither of these are ok. Any comments please. I'm using .041 safety wire and really don't know if I should be trying to twist between the the bearing and shaft hole or not. I've seen literally every kind of combo when I search on this.
Thanks.
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Wendell VAF#1832
RV-6A 3/4 done...N48JE Reserved 
Build site: www.mykitlog.com/weneng
Donated to VAF in 2020
Last edited by WenEng : 10-30-2017 at 03:06 PM.
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03-27-2012, 04:50 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fredericksburg, TX
Posts: 662
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I did not drill through the rod end. The safety wire should go through the lip of the jackscrew and the wraparound the bolt that hconnects the rod end to the weldment. At least that's the way I read the SB.
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Jim Averett
RV-8
TS36 - Silver Wings
Fredericksburg, TX
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03-27-2012, 05:44 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 166
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Lock Wire Nuts
I wouldn't drill any flight control rod, your inducing the possibility of failure at the critical point of the rod. If it comes from the manufacturer that way then all good.
You can use a AN nut that has lock wire holes drilled on the flats for this purpose, The AN drilled nut replaces the jam nut on your set up, you need to lock the nut to the rod, Look at using .032" lock wire, it will be a lot easier to use.
I'll look up the lock nut part number tonight at work and get back to you.
Nick.
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Nick Purcell
Licensed on B767, A330 Eng/Airframe
Fixing up RV6, building a Stewart S51
Basically a major overhaul of everything.
Last edited by RV6AussieNick : 03-27-2012 at 10:15 PM.
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03-27-2012, 07:30 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Big Sandy, WY
Posts: 2,567
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I think drilling does weaken the rod-end, but I dont know if it matters because under flap load its in compression (if I remember right). Seems like a smaller hole and .032 wire would make my eyes happier. The top wiring job looks correct although the plans don't call for for the drilled rod-end.
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Actual repeat offender.
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03-28-2012, 12:50 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 166
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lock nut
I looked up the part number for a drilled jam nut, for some reason I thought it was an AN number, the jam nut you need is a NAS509 if you do a google search you will find the spec details. This will be a safer method rather than drilling your hardware. http://usmilitaryfasteners.reachloca...493-nas574.pdf
Cheers,
Nick
__________________
Nick Purcell
Licensed on B767, A330 Eng/Airframe
Fixing up RV6, building a Stewart S51
Basically a major overhaul of everything.
Last edited by RV6AussieNick : 03-28-2012 at 08:49 AM.
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03-28-2012, 07:34 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: lake charles, La.
Posts: 699
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hmmm
I looked at this when I got to it in my build and decided to just install the rod end with jam nut tighten then I drilled straight through the screw housing and the rod end (threaded portion) and put a cotter key there.
bird
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Bird
rv8 entire airframe at airport now, painting done, intersection and gear upper and lower fairings done, maybe order engine around first of year or before the next rate increase.
"to fly is a privilege that I am so thankful to God for"
http://www.mykitlog.com/tcb328/
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03-28-2012, 05:44 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 2,787
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From previous post.....I looked at this when I got to it in my build and decided to just install the rod end with jam nut tighten then I drilled straight through the screw housing and the rod end (threaded portion) and put a cotter key there.
I like this idea. What fixture is best to start the hole on a cylinder?
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Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 800+ for all
Simplicity is the art in design.
My Artwork is freely given and published and cannot be patented.
www.rvplasticparts.com
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03-28-2012, 06:43 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: lake charles, La.
Posts: 699
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drill press
I used a drill press and a piece of angle iron and a vise. Clamp the angle iron in the vise, lay the assembly in the angle iron and clamp. This keeps it from moving, mark the spot and pilot drill with a small bit then step it up to correct size and voila', its done and no worries about broken safety wire.
bird
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Bird
rv8 entire airframe at airport now, painting done, intersection and gear upper and lower fairings done, maybe order engine around first of year or before the next rate increase.
"to fly is a privilege that I am so thankful to God for"
http://www.mykitlog.com/tcb328/
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03-28-2012, 07:56 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyinga
I did not drill through the rod end. The safety wire should go through the lip of the jackscrew and the wraparound the bolt that hconnects the rod end to the weldment. At least that's the way I read the SB.
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Yes, and the safety wire will flex every time the flaps are actuated.
Not the usual mode for safety wire...
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Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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03-28-2012, 08:12 PM
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Damage
You have damaged the rod end. You only need to keep the jam nut from rotating.
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