Drilling out rivet from shop head

Michael Burbidge · #1 03-25-2012, 01:45 PM

I need to drill out a 1/8 rivet. I no longer have access to the manufactured head. I have good access to the shop head. Any advice on how to do this?

I will replace with a cherry max.

Thanks Michael

Mel · #2 03-25-2012, 01:49 PM

If there is sufficient room, I would try grinding the shop head off with a dremel cut-off disk. Then punch the rivet out. For this kind of job, I usually stack two disks together.

As always, be careful with the cut-off disk as they can shatter in a heartbeat. Wear safety glasses and don't have any part of your body in line with the disk.

Michael Burbidge · #3 03-25-2012, 02:09 PM

Using the flat surface, not the cutting edge?

AlphaCharlieBravo · #4 03-25-2012, 02:12 PM

In addition to what Mel said. Take a small piece of .016, drill a hole in it just large enough to go over the offending shop head. Tape it down tight and then when you grind with the dremel, ( I like the sanding discs myself) there will be very little chance to damage surrounding material. Center drill and remove like normal.Good luck. Just take your time.

Mel · #5 03-25-2012, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michael Burbidge

Using the flat surface, not the cutting edge?

No! The cutting edge. That's why I stack two disks; to get a larger cutting surface.
Never try to grind with the flat side of a cutting disk. They will not tolerate ANY side load.

az_gila · #6 03-25-2012, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mel

No! The cutting edge. That's why I stack two disks; to get a larger cutting surface.
Never try to grind with the flat side of a cutting disk. They will not tolerate ANY side load.

The Dremel ones are dangerous... BUT - use these from your local hobby shop and then you can use the flat side to grind if needed -

http://www.greathobbies.com/productinfo/?prod_id=HOUAC4

Tuf Grind wheels - come in 1 or 2 inch diam.

JonJay · #7 03-25-2012, 04:29 PM

You can successfully drill them. The key is too insure that you do not drill beyond the thickness of the shop head and to drill as perfectly in the center of the shop head as possible. Take a pin punch and carefully snap the shop head off with light side pressure. If it does not easily pop off, stop and grind it off as mentioned.
Keep in mind, you drill as close to center as you can, but that does not mean it is in the center of the hole. Shop heads drift. So, make sure you do not drill any deeper than the shop head.
Never drill through a rivet to remove it, factory or shop head.

#8 03-25-2012, 06:07 PM

How are you going to grind enough without getting into sheetmetal? Drill it just enough to pop the head off then punch it out.

N355DW · #9 03-26-2012, 05:35 AM

I've drilled them, then I used these to cut the end flush and then I punch out the head:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting...et_Cutter.html

dustman · #10 03-26-2012, 06:53 AM

Since the discussion is drilling from the shop head side of a the rivet for removal let me throw this one out. Is it possible to drill the rivet, so that you remove the entire rivet and then replace it with a larger rivet. An exaple would be if the the offending rivet is sandwiched between two layers of sheeting and you cant get the seperation needed to remove the finished head.