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  #1  
Old 03-21-2012, 02:52 PM
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Auburntsts Auburntsts is offline
 
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Location: Tampa, FL
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Default Nose Gear Washers

For those that have installed their nose gear, I'm stumped on the orientation of the "cupped washers" that are below the fork. The plans state the outside perimeter of both washers must stay in contact with one another, but that leaves 3 possible orientations:



It's not intuitive to me which option to choose: A- both convex sides up, B- both convex sides down, or C- top convex up and bottom convex down. What did you guys do?
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  #2  
Old 03-21-2012, 03:15 PM
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OregonRVguy OregonRVguy is offline
 
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Default answer C

They are actually springs that need to be in your "C" orientation...
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  #3  
Old 03-21-2012, 08:29 PM
Strasnuts Strasnuts is offline
 
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Default I concur

"C"
I believe they are called bellevue washers??
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  #4  
Old 03-21-2012, 08:59 PM
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Strasnuts View Post
"C"
I believe they are called bellevue washers??
Belleville
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  #5  
Old 03-21-2012, 11:19 PM
aerhed aerhed is offline
 
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Default

Bellevue is where they keep the nuts.
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  #6  
Old 03-21-2012, 11:38 PM
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flyboy1963 flyboy1963 is offline
 
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Default ...and another thing!

so the cupped washers are part of the pre-load dewice of the nosegear swivel,
but at my first annual, I saw they were rusting.
Naturally, following the rule, if it moves......etc........I greased them, and of course, then found that I had to pretty much torque the nut until the washers were flat, to achieve the 22-25 lbs. side pull preload desired!
so what is the correct procedure..leave them dry, and possibly seize from rust?
...or is there a rust inhibitor that isn't slippery?
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  #7  
Old 03-22-2012, 12:43 AM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1963 View Post
so the cupped washers are part of the pre-load dewice of the nosegear swivel,
but at my first annual, I saw they were rusting.
Naturally, following the rule, if it moves......etc........I greased them, and of course, then found that I had to pretty much torque the nut until the washers were flat, to achieve the 22-25 lbs. side pull preload desired!
so what is the correct procedure..leave them dry, and possibly seize from rust?
...or is there a rust inhibitor that isn't slippery?
The similar system on my Grumman Tiger calls for greasing with Shell #6 grease every 100 hrs (or annual).
As long as you set the torque after greasing, it will be OK...

AeroShell #6 grease is somewhat obsolete - after all, the manual was written in the 70's - and the Mil-Spec it referenced has been replaced by later products such as AeroShell #22 grease.

My comments on another board -

Manual Reference - MIL-G-7711

This Mil Spec is now obsolete, if you check the records this comes up -

DOCUMENT: MIL-G-7711 TITLE: GREASE, AIRCRAFT, GENERAL PURPOSE (USE MIL-G-81322)

So the replacement is MIL-G-81322 This spec. is met by -

Aeroshell Grease 22

Mobil Grease 28
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Last edited by az_gila : 03-22-2012 at 12:45 AM.
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  #8  
Old 03-22-2012, 06:05 AM
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Auburntsts Auburntsts is offline
 
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Default

Thanks fellas!
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  #9  
Old 03-22-2012, 07:13 AM
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AlexPeterson AlexPeterson is offline
 
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Default Related...

It is worthwhile to lightly dress the face edges of the washers before using them. Lay a sheet of 400 grit sandpaper on a flat surface, and, laying the washer flat, lightly create a small annular flat on both the top and bottom. When the washers are assembled, they will contact each other, and the gear parts as well, with a little more surface area. I did this initially, and I've not had to adjust mine in 10+ years. Without doing this, they will machine their way into the bushing and each other, relieving some of the preload over time.
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