Engine Reliability?

[Sam Buchanan]

Originally Posted by Adam

Thanks Mahlon, I just wonder what the week link is when there is a failure, builder, maintnice, parts or all the above? I guess I'm asking what is the best way to be proactive to ensure a reliable engine!

Purchase your engine from a vendor that has a proven track record in the RV community. Keep it maintained to a high level and you should have many great years of flying.

[Walt]

Originally Posted by Adam

Thanks Mahlon, I just wonder what the week link is when there is a failure, builder, maintnice, parts or all the above? I guess I'm asking what is the best way to be proactive to ensure a reliable engine!

My 2c for best longevity:

Change the oil every 25 hours!
Run 65% power or less.
Lean aggressively (65% power or less).
Keep it cool.

[frankh]

build or buy a crankcase dehumidifier and get the steam out of the case by hooking it up before the engine cools.

No moisture inside crankcase equals no rust...I can't prove this stops corrosion but i can prove the case is full of steam after flight and the dehumidifier will get it out.

for $40 bucks in parts it has to be valuable insurance.

Frank

[Ironflight]

One other way to keep the corrosion/moisture problem to a minimum is to fly the airplane regularly - like several times a week. If that's your plan, you're on your way to long (engine) life.....

[frankh]

Absolutely..Now if only I could find such a wonderful work/life balance..

Frank

[pierre smith]

You're in luck, Frank!

I fly for a living and don't look forward to my occasional RV flight as much, because of that....sadly. My living is in the air.

You guys that have the weekend trip to look forward to, really have a much broader sense of appreciation for those rare times than I do.

Best,

[Jerry Wilcox]

Not sure if this will be on track re the original question. When I got out of high school I went straight to work with an auto engine rebuilder, started doing cylinder heads then boring blocks and into actual engine building. Also a bit later had a motorcycle shop and then got into aircraft maintenance. No mention has been made of the guy driving the thing. I have done lots of engines over the years from single to 12 cylinder and know that you can use the best stuff available but if the guy running it want's to he can always break it. You probably realise I'm aiming that statement at the car motorcycle side of the equation. Airplane engines are high performance engines (car guy's are probably laughing now) and deserve treatment as such. I say that because any engine that will put out it's design HP or 75% of that for it's life, in this case 2000hrs, is definitely high performance. Big auto engines might do 15 - 30% of their rating continuous. So know you engine how to run it properly and do as others have said maintenance wise and you will have a great flying experience.
I should also add that I prefer genuine Lycoming parts but have used Superior and had good service. Am not a fan of the ceramic coatings and other gimmicks that are always going to revolutionize the industry. I like to keep it simple.
Jerry

[David-aviator]

Originally Posted by Walt

My 2c for best longevity:

Change the oil every 25 hours!
Run 65% power or less.
Lean aggressively (65% power or less).
Keep it cool.

AMEN to that.

It is a formula that works and if the engine is assembled with care by someone who knows his stuff, it will last a long time.

I like BPE.

[Adam]

Thanks Jerry, good information!

[G3i Ignition]

Originally Posted by Ironflight

One other way to keep the corrosion/moisture problem to a minimum is to fly the airplane regularly - like several times a week. If that's your plan, you're on your way to long (engine) life.....

A few years ago I spoke with a tech rep. from Shell Oil Company about internal corrosion. He stated that depending on what part of the country you reside in, the moisture/ condensation that accurse in the engine after shut down will require that the next flight have a minimum of 18 minutes of operation @ 180 degrees oil temp or above to remove all previous existing moisture. Another thought of mine, is I do not move the prop around by hand after shut down or pre start-up. For this removes the oil film that was left behind on all mating parts. This is required for lubrication on the next start up. Turning an engine over by hand or just cranking on a starter to lube things up before start-up is a no, no. Just light the engine.
Thomas