Shop heads not forming fast enough

sbalmos · #1 03-10-2012, 02:49 PM

Newbie question... So I just pounded the first four rivets in my bird. They're 470AD4-6's, between the HS spar and doubler plate. Now if I'm reading my trusty Cleaveland rivet gauge right (the -6 hole), then the shop head isn't nearly wide enough. Yet the height is right. It just seems like I'm using a *lot* more pressure with my bucking bar than I did with the practice kit, and still not getting the shop head anywhere near wide enough. So far, it's looking like they're matching up to the -4 or -5 holes.

I'm running my 3x at 40psi using the standard bucking bar that comes with Avery's rivet gun toolkit. Any tips?

And I imagine I'm going to have to drill these out anyway, because the gun starts to slip and dents the machine head.

bkthomps · #2 03-10-2012, 02:51 PM

you should be using the -4 diameter gauge, not -6! that's the length

gstone · #3 03-10-2012, 02:52 PM

That -6 is for a -6 size rivet where yours are 4-6's, the 6 in your rivet number is the length not the diameter..... You need to use the 4 size hole...

Clear as mud....

sbalmos · #4 03-10-2012, 02:57 PM

That's what I thought after a few minutes. Kept staring at the -6 hole and thinking "there's no way it can be that wide. That'd be overdriven!".

Yeah, no kidding gstone. It's the dash that throws us new kids off who are still new to rivet specs. The -6 for the length makes sense. But then you see the -6 for the hole, and nothing in Cleaveland's instructions says you should really be matching with the first number after the AD, which matches the diameter.

Or maybe I was just being dense, since they were the first rivets. :/

Okay, so actually the shop heads are fine then. Should I worry about the dents on the manufactured heads?

scard · #5 03-10-2012, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbalmos

Okay, so actually the shop heads are fine then. Should I worry about the dents on the manufactured heads?

If you're talking about the last picture. YES. Surely there is someone within a half hour drive that can show you 10min worth of basic riveting?

Bill.Peyton · #6 03-10-2012, 03:31 PM

I would suggest that you not drill them out until an experienced friend can come out and help you with your technique. Initially, if you can find someone who is experienced and work with them for a 100 rivets or so with one of you driving and the other bucking, you will learn quite a bit and it will prepare you for doing the deed on your own. Don't sweat it, you'll get the swing of it!

Brantel · #7 03-10-2012, 03:53 PM

Like the others are saying. Stop and get some help.

You are gonna need to address those scratches on the spar bars as well.

30 minutes with someone that knows how will get you going correctly.

Gonzo24 · #8 03-10-2012, 04:31 PM

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OhioValleyRVators/

Hi Scott. Saw you are close to Cinci. My advice to you is to join this group. RV gods galore belong to said mystical tribe....

Seriously though, there are some really good people with tons of skill that communicate through the Ohio Valley RVator group. Info on tools, techniques, other projects in your area, Fly out gatherings, etc. is there.

qiutong · #9 03-10-2012, 07:36 PM

Scott,

I'm still learning and far from a pro, but I live in Goshen. If you'd like, we could get together and maybe, just maybe, I can help you out. I'm currently working on the wings for an RV-7. Let me know if you're interested.

Brad

aarvig · #10 03-10-2012, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbalmos

I'm running my 3x at 40psi using the standard bucking bar that comes with Avery's rivet gun toolkit. Any tips?

On 470 rivets I am running my 3x rivet gun at 60psi. A quick trigger pull and they are set.