|
-
POSTING RULES

-
Donate yearly (please).
-
Advertise in here!
-
Today's Posts
|
Insert Pics
|

03-03-2012, 02:05 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 267
|
|
Rudder pedal help/advice
Hi Guys
Im in the process of rigging up the rudder cable to the pedal via the link.
When it is all attached and in position the hole in the side of the bulkhead with the snap bushing is not lined up with the pedal mounting location causing the cable to rub on the inside of the snap bushing. the entire pedal really needs to be like 1/2 inch closer to the side of fuselage.(But if i did cut it to do so the other end would probably fall out of the plastic housing.
I have triple checked all my measurements of the pedal assembly to the drawings and they are all good, also the hole in the plastic housings are to the correct depth?
Is there anything im missing here?
Thanks AJ
|

03-03-2012, 07:03 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Evans, GA
Posts: 208
|
|
I don't think it's a problem
I just finished the same step. The cable runs to the aft fuselage are not a straight shot, so I believe it's inevitable that the cables will touch the inside of the snap bushings as they move through their travel.
__________________
Ken Howell
Evans, Georgia
RV-7 N92LT - Based at Thomson-Mcduffie airport HQU
TMXIO-360, Dynon Skview
Flying since June, 2012
|

03-03-2012, 07:19 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Delta, CO/Atlin, BC
Posts: 2,389
|
|
What Ken said is correct, the lines are not a straight shot. I split some 1/4" nylon tubing and put that over the cables to minimize the rubbing. But I've never heard of anyone having a problem.
Greg
__________________
Greg Arehart
RV-9B (Big tires) Tipup @AJZ or CYSQ
N 7965A
|

03-03-2012, 08:08 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: WA
Posts: 988
|
|
not much cutting action...
The rudder cables are only tight when your feet are on the pedals and the only time there is any cable movement against the snap bushing is during ground movement and landing... in the air there is not really any vibration induced cutting since the cables are not tight so wear of the bushings turns out not to be an issue.
__________________
Stephen
RV7 powered by a lycoming thunderbolt IO-390
turning a whirlwind HRT prop
with more hours flying than building... 2,430 on the hobbs!
ORCA Flight
Race 771
margarita!
|

03-03-2012, 10:07 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 267
|
|
Thanks guys
Thanks for the replies everyone,
It just seemed strange to me as the crimped end of the clevis Sometimes hits the snap bushing and stops before full travel is achieved. But even the drawings show the rudder cable more inwards.
It's half a inch more inwards than the hole in the bulkhead, does that seem ok?
|

03-03-2012, 10:18 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,642
|
|
Might be a bit counterintuitive, but the rubbing of the clevis on the bushing is a bit smoother if you put the bushing in from the aft side of the bulkhead, at least in my experience. There are many threads on this in the archive though if you want more reading and/or ideas.
__________________
Steve M.
Ellensburg WA
RV-9 Flying, 0-320, Catto
Donation reminder: Jan. 2021
|

03-03-2012, 11:17 AM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 1,014
|
|
Clevis hitting the bushing
This also happened on my 7 and I did not like it so I split some neoprene tubing and put it over the clevis and the rudder cable and made it long enough such that it was always in the snap bushing. I tie wrapped each end to keep it in place. 183 hours and no problems, I do check it at each condition inspection for wear etc.
|

03-03-2012, 06:24 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Garden City, Tx
Posts: 5,122
|
|
I just hooked up my rudder cables this week and noticed the same thing - and I believe I will put some neoprene tubing or equivalent over the cable in the snap bushing locations.
__________________
Greg Niehues - SEL, IFR, Repairman Cert.
Garden City, TX VAF 2020 dues paid 
N16GN flying 700 hrs and counting; IO360, SDS, WWRV200, Dynon HDX, 430W
Built an off-plan RV9A with too much fuel and too much HP. Should drop dead any minute now.
|

03-07-2012, 09:57 AM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 474
|
|
I purchased some 5/8" hard poly tubing (milky white appearance) at the local home depot and inserted it into the holes instead of using bushings- from the seat back bulkhead to the forward spar bulkhead. A single piece appx. 3 feet long on each side. The cable now has the entire surface of the tubing to rub instead of just the points with the snap bushings. The tubing diameter is such that it just fits the holes for the snap bushings and is firmly in place- it never moves. It seems to me a better setup than the bushings and you don't have the exposed cable at your elbow when flying.
__________________
Tim Ribble
Virginia Beach
RV-6A (only took 13 years to build  )
N621TR In unrestricted operation
|

03-07-2012, 06:05 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: pittsburgh pa
Posts: 533
|
|
Trib Nice idea!!
__________________
Gary Reed
RV-6 IO-360
WW 200 RV now an Al Hartzell for improved CG
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:44 PM.
|