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04-01-2012, 02:11 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Marshall TX (KASL)
Posts: 1,783
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Read prior posts for most of these with further details and exact page numbers. IF you are using the conversion harnesses you will not use the WH-00025. You will instead plug in the plug labeled "Autopilot" from your options conversion harness and install a molex disconnect on your AP switch.
The intercom issue is also fully covered in prior posts. You only have the WH-RV12-FLTCOM403 harness if you bought the prior D-180 avionics. Otherwise they found out they had overlooked it, then sent us some new wires to use and a new plans page revision.
The L456 harness is not done by Stein exactly as described in the plans but it is labeled. Also covered in prior posts.
The (PRP/YEL) and (YEL/GRN) are for the roll bar light, You do not use them if you already installed that in the finish kit "the old way" which is why you would cut them. Remember they are doing totally new harnesses for people now getting the finish kit.
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04-01-2012, 07:41 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: arvada, co
Posts: 445
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Still confused
I have printed several posts on the AP disconnect and what goes in the molex plug. The disconnect side in pretty easy (for me) to understand who to organize the plug, but coming from under the panel side is still a bit confusing to me.
So the long purple/yellow and yellow/grn are used to run to the roll bar light but since I installed the finish kit I abandon those wires, Correct? Where do the 2 wires coming from the roll bar now go? Are these the 2 "light" wires associated with the molex plug to the disconnect? Even if they are identified differently in the plans. Just confusing because it is set-up for different situations.
42D pg22 step3, running P600 & P601, orn/blk to headset then tie off? Really, is there something else down the road or is this too another change associated with a different installation?
Is anyone else install the new fuel sender? I am and on 42D pg 24 step 7 Red wire WH Q741 fuel pressure power supplied with the kit. What kit? It wasn't in with the sender, and I couldn't find a single red wire with any of the wiring item that came with Skyview. Any idea?
There was a prior question about removing AP 74 and 42D pg16 step2 states roll it up or cut and seal the wire ends so I did.
L456 & L458 go left and right but I have not done any of 31A so I hoped it would be identified there and on 42D pg 23 these wires are mentioned. However, the note at the top says If up-dating directly to skyview on 31A then ignor this page. Now I'm wondering if I am converting because of installing the finish kit even though I never install the D180.
Thanks to all ahead of me who have figured these things out! 
__________________
Patrick Claar
Arvada, CO BJC
RV12, #401, Flying 2013, N612PC
RV6, 1996-2010 sold
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04-01-2012, 08:43 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Marshall TX (KASL)
Posts: 1,783
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I am on a business trip without my plans. But...
Imagine that you completed the AP disconnect switch as per the original finish kit plans. You can find the page. There are 4 wires going to that switch. They come from "inside" the panel, out through a hole in the base, then underneath the base to the switch. Now, those wires prevent you from taking off that center piece of the panel! Which you have to do because the new center piece is different. Those are the 4 wires you CUT and you install a molex connector there to reattach them later. (It should have been done that way in the first place, sometimes Van's saves some money on strange things...)
You are correct in cutting off entirely the branch of the old harness that would have been used for the AP-74. That is per the instructions.
Those wires that get tied off at the headphone jacks have been confirmed in this thread to provide 12 V. You could use them to supply ship's power to a noise cancelling headset that needs it (rather than carrying around a battery pack).
I installed the new fuel pressure sender. Just make yourself a wire. You'll need to crimp a pin on one end. Doesn't matter if its red. It is probably red in a new harness you get if you buy a finish kit now.
If you installed the roll bar light already per the earlier finish kit plans, don't change it and just don't use those wires you mention. You might remember that making the wires for that light was something of a tacked-on-kludge. What is happening now is that they are being included in the default wiring harness.
Cross check L456 and L458 with the lighting connector upgrade section. You need them. They will power the nav lights, with the existing wires being separated out and supplying only the strobes. The new switch panel is different, with separate switching for nav only and nav/strobe-combo.
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04-01-2012, 09:19 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: La Feria Texas
Posts: 3,822
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At first I was disappointed that I was not first and I did not get to solve all the early wiring problems with the Skyview, but now I am actually quite thankful that Bill got to do it, and even more thankful he is sharing what he found with the rest of us. Thanks Bill!
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04-01-2012, 09:43 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: arvada, co
Posts: 445
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Thanks Bill and like Don I too an very glad there are others who have accomplish the install and can coach others, like me!!
I never installed the AP disconnect because it would have required me to install the center panel section. Knowing I was going to hold out for Skyview I waited and thought I had the wiring worked out, but the interior light played a part and yes a little convoluted. I will review some of the past posts and try to figure out what wires they are identifing.
So those long 2 wires would go to the interior light now go to the wires I already installed to the interior light? I know I printed a plans revision for the interior light and will review that page.
Thanks again Bill.....and if you have any prior post #'s which would be good to explain any of this stuff I probably have printed it out but let me know.
__________________
Patrick Claar
Arvada, CO BJC
RV12, #401, Flying 2013, N612PC
RV6, 1996-2010 sold
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04-01-2012, 10:09 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Marshall TX (KASL)
Posts: 1,783
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To be safe, you should electrically connect the roll bar light and the AP disconnect switch per the original finish kit plans. Just add in the Molex "dis-connector" beneath the panel when you wire up the AP disconnect switch.
The conversion harness assumes you did it that way and those things will work correctly when you use that conversion harness. They may or may not if you try to use those new wires for the roll bar light - depends on how they were wired in the new harnesses and we don't have that diagram! So play it safe - the plans say not to use them. I know my roll bar light and AP disconnect works fine by following the plans!
I had also held off originally on that AP switch for the same reason you did. Then I went ahead and put in carefully marked male-female spade-type disconnects because I ran out of things to do waiting for Skyview! (Oooooh! What about E-LSA..... give me a break!) And then they sent the Molex and I had to undo/redo that! Oh well! I think in newer kits (not for us conversion types) they are also "molexing" the trim motor, the fuel flow transducer, and who knows - maybe even the AP servos. Those would all be a good idea compared to the multitude of these finicky spade lugs that are problematic with 22ga wire.
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04-01-2012, 10:58 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill_H
I think in newer kits (not for us conversion types) they are also "molexing" the trim motor, the fuel flow transducer, and who knows - maybe even the AP servos.
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Correct Bill.
All wire connections have been upgraded to molex or micro molex connectors.
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04-02-2012, 08:13 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Clayton, GA
Posts: 193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002
Correct Bill.
All wire connections have been upgraded to molex or micro molex connectors.
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Not quite all. Most have been upgraded. There are still a few crimp style spade and splice connectors.
__________________
Bruce Russell
Clayton, GA
Simultaneous Repeat Offender
RV-14A 140005
N48WT
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04-02-2012, 09:27 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Posts: 134
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Speaking of the nefarious AP Disconnect Button, I discovered a "challenge" Friday evening that set me back on my heels for several hours. I'm upgrading the old wiring harness to Skyview and hadn't bought the D180 avionics kit. When installing the wiring last year, I didn't do the AP Disconnect Button because Van's had already announced that Skyview was coming and the Autopilot would be handled differently. The button with its four dangling wires was placed on the shelf in a ziplock bag, until last Friday.
If we turn to Page 31-07 Step 7 of the Scriptures, we find that WH-F78 and WH-F79 (the long pinned wires coming from the AP Disconnect Button) are inserted into Pins 9 and 12 of the 25-Pin Optional D-Sub Connector. Easy enough, right? But there were already two wires in those pin locations! Now what?
Since Van's was closed for the weekend, I got into some thread searching here on vansairforce.net and came up with a wiring table spreadsheet that listed all of the wires for the original wiring harness. Studying this for awhile, I finally figured out that the factory-inserted wires in Pins 9 and 12 should've been inserted into Pins 10 and 11. So, I moved these two wires, inserted the AP Disconnect Button wires according to Page 31-07 Step 7, and am now hoping for the best.
I sure hope this thing works...
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04-02-2012, 11:36 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: arvada, co
Posts: 445
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Challenging
Catbird, Bill H, and builder 2002
I am having difficulty identifing the wires now that conversion has started. I thought it was fairly clear during the finish kit install, but even then not the "clearest instuction part." Now since I did not install the AP button it looks a little more confusing. Wire identification is different. For instance these darn cabin light wires and how they integrate into the AP button. I guess it was a power thing, but the numbers on those are not the lighting wire numbers on the conversion plans. Both my cabin light wires are white coming from the light and terminating inside the bottom of the panel. So when I look at color of wire and number assigned I have no idea where those wires might be. Again the button wires are there and figuring those out and into the molex are not too bad. I have to remove some pin ends to attach new connectors but not too bad.
Any help appreciated.
__________________
Patrick Claar
Arvada, CO BJC
RV12, #401, Flying 2013, N612PC
RV6, 1996-2010 sold
Last edited by funflying : 04-02-2012 at 11:57 AM.
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