RV-7A Quickbuild: Which tools are NOT needed?

[grayforge]

Did a search on this, but surprisingly didn't find anything on this specific subject...

I was wondering, among the many Tool Kits offered by the RV tool houses, which ones, if any, aren't actually needed on an RV-7A Quickbuild kit? To review a typical RV tool kit, I've pasted a list below.

Another Data Point: I'll likely build the tail at a local RV Training shop during their advanced course.

Thanks!
Russ

This list is a slightly modified Avery list for the RVs:

3X RIVET GUN
BEEHIVE SPRING
QUICK CHANGE SPRING
AIR TOOL REGULATOR
1/4" AIR DRILL
AIR TOOL OIL
DRDT-2 OR HAMMER OPERATED C FRAME DIMPLER
3" HAND OR PNEUMATIC SQUEEZER
6 PC. SQUEEZER SET MIX
DIMPLE DIE KIT
3/32" POP RIVET DIMPLER
3/32" VISE GRIP DIMPLER
TUNGSTON BUCKING BAR
VARIOUS STEEL BUCKING BARS
1/8" RIVET SET
1/8" DOUBLE OFFSET RIVET SET
FLUSH SWIVEL RIVET SET
BACK RIVET SET
FLUTING PLIER
HAND SEAMER
ANGLE DRILL
C'SINK CAGE AND CUTTERS
#10 SCREW DIMPLER
SHARPIES
FLEXIBLE STEEL RULE
RIVET GAUGE SET
SPEED DEBURRING TOOL
ROYAL MULTI-BURR TOOL
DOUBLE EDGE DEBURRING TOOL
OFFSET SNIPS - LEFT
OFFSET SNIPS - RIGHT
6" S/BRITE CUT & POLISH WHEEL
VIXEN FILE
3/32" DRIVE PIN PUNCH
1/8" DRIVE PIN PUNCH
SWIVEL HEAD POP RIVET TOOL
A/C STRUCTURAL TECHNICIAN BOOK
STANDARD AIRCRAFT HANDBOOK
EMERY CLOTH ROLL
SCOTCH-BRITE 5 HAND PADS MAROON
CLECO PLIER
3/32" CLECOS (325 PCS)
1/8" CLECOS (175 PCS)
5/32" CLECOS (10 PCS)
3/16" CLECOS (12 PCS)
1/2" X 1/2" SIDE GRIPS (10 PCS)
1/2" X 1" SIDE GRIPS (10 PCS)
EDGE ROLLING TOOL
BACK RIVETING PLATE
S/BRITE WHEEL KIT
UNIBIT #3 1/4" to 3/4"
RIVETING TAPE
#40 COBALT DRILLS (4 pack)
#30 COBALT DRILLS (3 pack)
#21 COBALT DRILLS (3 pack)
#27 COBALT DRILLS (3 pack)
#19 COBALT DRILLS (2 pack)
#12 COBALT DRILLS (2 pack)
1/4" COBALT DRILL (1 PC)
#40 X 12" EXTENSION DRILL
#30 X 12" EXTENSION DRILL
4 PC DRILL STOP SET*

[hydroguy2]

That list pretty well sums it up. On my QB 7, I used all of those things EXCEPT:

no DRDT-2 dimpler
no pneumatic squeezer
used probably only 1/2 that number of each size of clecos
no tungsten bucking bar


I did not see rivet spacing fan on the list, but used one often.

[clevtool]

I would love to hear feedback, from quickbuild builders who are completed, on my answer so that I can validate what has been my advise for years now.


You only need half the 3/32 and 1/8" clekos.

Use 2X gun rather than 3X if you are doing the QB as the long 1/8" rivets are already done.

If you have the tail done and doing the QB there might not be reason to have the backrivet plate, set, and tape.

If you have the tungsten bar you don't need the steel ones except for one time area where any chunk of steel ground to fit will work.

You don't need the vise grip dies or edge former if you are finished with the tail and doing the QB kit.

Borrow a C-frame, you will only have one skin to do.

[flytoboat]

I'm sure you'll use all of them (as well as many more) just not as much as someone doing a standard build.

[jimpappas]

Is there such a thing as a tool you DON'T need??!!

[grayforge]

Excellent point Jim! Any excuse for more tools.

Mike, that's great info! So no C-Frame... Are there plenty of rivets left to do in a QB kit to make an SHPS squeezer useful?

Thanks,
Russ

[Bear Creek Skunkworks]

I am done with the sheet metal with my 9a. IMHO,between the tail kit and the four skins I think you will find it useful to have a c frame tool(borrowed or bought). Also if I only had 1 bucking bar it would be the Tungsten! It is very nice putting on the wing skins especially if you are doing any of it, or any riveting, by yourself.This bar works on the 7 wings as well I have helped build 2 sets of those.
Terry

[AltonD]

Originally Posted by jimpappas

Is there such a thing as a tool you DON'T need??!!

I was thinking the same thing.

[AltonD]

Originally Posted by clevtool

...
Borrow a C-frame, you will only have one skin to do.

Three actually. bottom outboard wing skins, forward fuse skin.

[grayforge]

On the C-Frame front... I already started building a DRDT-2 and was planning to mount a SHPS head to it. I'll go ahead and finish the DRDT-2 and just mount the normal dimpler mechanism on it. Then sell the unit when done. This one is being built with 1/4" wall rectangular tubing instead of 3/16 so it's capable of riveting too. :-)