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02-11-2012, 05:43 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Gaspe, Qc
Posts: 139
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More heat !!!
Did my first couple winter flights with the RV6 on Thu and Fri. Loved it.
The only downside is I had to get up to 4500-5000ft to get smooth air on friday and it was kind of cold... The heater couldn't produce enough heat to properly warm the cabin.
I did some "cold weather prep" to the plane not too long ago which paid off. Like insulating the canopy properly, pluging up the air inlets etc... The cabin is also insulated... But still, it was getting chilly at FL050!
I've looked around to find hints and techniques used by some to get more heat from the heating system, anything new in that department ?
Appart from putting a couple of those on the floor?

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02-11-2012, 06:57 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 3,778
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These will help cut down on the cold air leaks:
http://www.flightlineinteriors.com/p...on/default.asp
You might install a second heat muff.
__________________
Reiley
Retired N622DR - Serial #V7A1467
VAF# 671
Repeat Offender / Race 007
Friend of the RV-1
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02-11-2012, 07:55 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 301
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another thing to try
Others have reported putting stainless steel scoring pads in the muffs to get more heat. Not sure about this maybe, others with first hand experience can chime in. Or you can search the forums.
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02-11-2012, 09:25 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Mount Vernon, IN
Posts: 1,270
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These are quite popular:
seat heaters
We have them in stock and ready to ship.
__________________
Vince Frazier
www.f1aircraft.com
F1 Rocket and F4 Raider components
1-888-F1AIRCRAFT (1-888-312-4727)
www.flyboyaccessories.com
RV and Rocket Accessories, Tailwheels, Tools, & More
1-888-8FLYBOY (1-888-835-9269)
F4 Raider - under construction
F1-H Rocket "Crazy Horse" - sold
RV-4 "Chief Pontiac" - sold in 1994, purchased in 2018
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02-11-2012, 09:30 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Mateo, CA
Posts: 1,419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny stick
Others have reported putting stainless steel scoring pads in the muffs to get more heat. Not sure about this maybe, others with first hand experience can chime in. Or you can search the forums.
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Putting a couple of those in the muff made a huge difference for me - also, I restricted the size of the air inlet going to the muff by about 30%. I have lots of heat now.
If it is really cold, I'll toss a couple of foam pipe insulators into the gap by the slider rails.
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02-11-2012, 09:41 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 1,261
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Inlet to what
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinh
Putting a couple of those in the muff made a huge difference for me - also, I restricted the size of the air inlet going to the muff by about 30%. I have lots of heat now.
If it is really cold, I'll toss a couple of foam pipe insulators into the gap by the slider rails.
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I have not hooked up my heat muff yet, but how does limiting air going into the heat muff help make more heat. Did you mean you reduced the cockpit inlet, which attaches to the heat muff out let? I am sure there is some physics principle I don't get. I woulld like to make these mods as I am building, it will be cold many of the days here in the NW.
Cheers
__________________
Mike "Nemo" Elliott
RV-8A (First Flight 12-12-12!)
KOCF
N800ME
www.mykitlog.com/rvg8tor
Dues Paid 2019
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02-11-2012, 10:12 PM
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 147
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More heat
Did the scour pads, helped quite a lot, though don't get too aggressive with limiting airflow as it may be OK when really cold, you may have an issue in summer even though you are dumping the air.
Air leaks are important, push rod boots are great as well as foam block on the spar penetration. I have not bothered with the rear bulk head V ridges as the incoming air has to go out some place. I recently did the Aero Classic Sportsman 2 interior which help a lot with insulation.
One of the best things to seal up the slider canopy was to cement HD marine vynl around the inside edge of the skirt at the back with outside edge free to inflate against the fuselage. Took a similar approach with the sides so that the top edge folds over the slider rail and is sucked down to seal. Both work good with nothing to mess with as the seals travel with the canopy and "self inflate" to make the seal...and they look great.
__________________
Regards,
Darin
C-GULF RV-7 located in Calgary, AB
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02-11-2012, 10:26 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,275
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Mike, increased surface area of hot/warm metal (scouring pads) along with slower air movement technically should result in more heat absorbed by the air flowing through the heat muff.
Check on whether you need copper or stainless. One is reportedly bad (disintegrates?).
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02-12-2012, 07:59 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Madison, Wisconsin
Posts: 778
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Two heat muffs
I added a second heat muff connected in series with the first one, which made a big difference. Sealing up air leaks is also made a difference.
__________________
Alan Carroll
RV-8 N12AC
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02-12-2012, 08:51 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 305
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mufflers
Vetterman offers a system with mufflers. I was interested for noise reduction, when I spoke to him he said that they also provided substantially more heat than the muffs. I am sure you could add them to an exisitng system (some mods required).
No PIREP as I'm not flying yet, but they fit very nicely.
Bill Brooks
Ottawa, Canada
RV-6A finishing kit
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