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  #1  
Old 02-11-2012, 05:43 PM
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lockeed lockeed is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Gaspe, Qc
Posts: 139
Default More heat !!!

Did my first couple winter flights with the RV6 on Thu and Fri. Loved it.

The only downside is I had to get up to 4500-5000ft to get smooth air on friday and it was kind of cold... The heater couldn't produce enough heat to properly warm the cabin.

I did some "cold weather prep" to the plane not too long ago which paid off. Like insulating the canopy properly, pluging up the air inlets etc... The cabin is also insulated... But still, it was getting chilly at FL050!

I've looked around to find hints and techniques used by some to get more heat from the heating system, anything new in that department ?

Appart from putting a couple of those on the floor?
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  #2  
Old 02-11-2012, 06:57 PM
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LifeofReiley LifeofReiley is offline
 
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Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 3,778
Default

These will help cut down on the cold air leaks:

http://www.flightlineinteriors.com/p...on/default.asp

You might install a second heat muff.
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  #3  
Old 02-11-2012, 07:55 PM
johnny stick johnny stick is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 301
Default another thing to try

Others have reported putting stainless steel scoring pads in the muffs to get more heat. Not sure about this maybe, others with first hand experience can chime in. Or you can search the forums.
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  #4  
Old 02-11-2012, 09:25 PM
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vfrazier vfrazier is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Mount Vernon, IN
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Default

These are quite popular:

seat heaters

We have them in stock and ready to ship.
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  #5  
Old 02-11-2012, 09:30 PM
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kevinh kevinh is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Mateo, CA
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny stick View Post
Others have reported putting stainless steel scoring pads in the muffs to get more heat. Not sure about this maybe, others with first hand experience can chime in. Or you can search the forums.
Putting a couple of those in the muff made a huge difference for me - also, I restricted the size of the air inlet going to the muff by about 30%. I have lots of heat now.

If it is really cold, I'll toss a couple of foam pipe insulators into the gap by the slider rails.
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  #6  
Old 02-11-2012, 09:41 PM
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RVG8tor RVG8tor is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 1,261
Default Inlet to what

Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinh View Post
Putting a couple of those in the muff made a huge difference for me - also, I restricted the size of the air inlet going to the muff by about 30%. I have lots of heat now.

If it is really cold, I'll toss a couple of foam pipe insulators into the gap by the slider rails.
I have not hooked up my heat muff yet, but how does limiting air going into the heat muff help make more heat. Did you mean you reduced the cockpit inlet, which attaches to the heat muff out let? I am sure there is some physics principle I don't get. I woulld like to make these mods as I am building, it will be cold many of the days here in the NW.

Cheers
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  #7  
Old 02-11-2012, 10:12 PM
Darin Watson Darin Watson is offline
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 147
Default More heat

Did the scour pads, helped quite a lot, though don't get too aggressive with limiting airflow as it may be OK when really cold, you may have an issue in summer even though you are dumping the air.

Air leaks are important, push rod boots are great as well as foam block on the spar penetration. I have not bothered with the rear bulk head V ridges as the incoming air has to go out some place. I recently did the Aero Classic Sportsman 2 interior which help a lot with insulation.

One of the best things to seal up the slider canopy was to cement HD marine vynl around the inside edge of the skirt at the back with outside edge free to inflate against the fuselage. Took a similar approach with the sides so that the top edge folds over the slider rail and is sucked down to seal. Both work good with nothing to mess with as the seals travel with the canopy and "self inflate" to make the seal...and they look great.
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  #8  
Old 02-11-2012, 10:26 PM
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Ron Lee Ron Lee is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,275
Default

Mike, increased surface area of hot/warm metal (scouring pads) along with slower air movement technically should result in more heat absorbed by the air flowing through the heat muff.

Check on whether you need copper or stainless. One is reportedly bad (disintegrates?).
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  #9  
Old 02-12-2012, 07:59 AM
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Alan Carroll Alan Carroll is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Madison, Wisconsin
Posts: 778
Default Two heat muffs

I added a second heat muff connected in series with the first one, which made a big difference. Sealing up air leaks is also made a difference.
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  #10  
Old 02-12-2012, 08:51 AM
C-GRVT C-GRVT is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 305
Default mufflers

Vetterman offers a system with mufflers. I was interested for noise reduction, when I spoke to him he said that they also provided substantially more heat than the muffs. I am sure you could add them to an exisitng system (some mods required).
No PIREP as I'm not flying yet, but they fit very nicely.
Bill Brooks
Ottawa, Canada
RV-6A finishing kit
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