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  #31  
Old 06-04-2012, 07:10 PM
Kokemiller's Avatar
Kokemiller Kokemiller is offline
 
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Location: Boone, IA
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I recycled a couple retired disk blades out of the iron pile with an 18" section of 2.5 x 2.5 x .25" angle and 2-3" muffler clamps welded together.

Makes jacking the mains a quick, simple job.

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  #32  
Old 06-09-2012, 09:40 AM
jim miller jim miller is offline
 
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Location: Tullahoma, Tennessee
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I like your design with the welded angle. I have a RV3 and was wondering
if having just one jack would be sufficent and just jack up one side at a
time for tire, bearing, and brake work?

Thanks
Jim Miller
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  #33  
Old 06-09-2012, 11:44 AM
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RVG8tor RVG8tor is offline
 
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Default Why offset

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kokemiller View Post
I recycled a couple retired disk blades out of the iron pile with an 18" section of 2.5 x 2.5 x .25" angle and 2-3" muffler clamps welded together.

Makes jacking the mains a quick, simple job.

I like the simplicity, curious why you mounted it on the disk offset from center? It my just be an illusion, details one would like if they plan to copy your design
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  #34  
Old 06-09-2012, 05:51 PM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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Default My modification/contribution to the design

One way to address the concern about the struts slipping out of the band clamp is to just rivet the struts to the clamp using an AN426AD4 rivet. (I found this solid band clamp at my local irrigation supply store, but I suspect most well-stocked hardware stores would carry something similar.)



Thanks Stephen for the original idea. Under $50 for everything!
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Last edited by alpinelakespilot2000 : 06-09-2012 at 05:59 PM.
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  #35  
Old 06-09-2012, 06:33 PM
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Kokemiller Kokemiller is offline
 
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The angle is welded offset so the jack is centered.

One jack will work just fine, just be careful of side loads as the weight is shifted to the opposite wheel.

I had someone ask me if I have any extra blades so they could make one like it (he said he didn't have any disk blades laying around for some strange reason). I do have a bunch but they are heavy, dirty and 23" in diameter. I will be more than happy to give them to any one that wants to pick them up at BNW. Might be a good reason to come to RV day on 6/16.
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  #36  
Old 06-10-2012, 04:49 AM
s24789 s24789 is offline
 
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Location: Hobe Sound, Florida
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Default Jacks leak

Be careful. The jacks from harbor freight will leak over time. We were on jacks for a month getting some gear work done and placed saw horses longitudinally across thebfront and back wing spars. The leaknis not great but we needed a coupl of pumps each day. The jacks are a home run
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  #37  
Old 06-10-2012, 06:38 AM
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curtis curtis is offline
 
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Location: Kansas
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There are some great ideas here, but I question using hose clamps to secure the braces that I see in some of the pictures. Would it not be safer to use something like a muffler clamp?
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  #38  
Old 06-12-2012, 05:50 AM
jim miller jim miller is offline
 
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Location: Tullahoma, Tennessee
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When I saw this thread I rushed off to HF to buy jack and now have the
project done except for painting. I used ideas from the posted designs and
added my some of my own. I will try to post a photo later and may need
some help.

Thanks
Jim Miller PS: This jack may be a little tall for my RV3 and may require that
I cut off the two inches of jack ram that extends above jack when fully
retracted. Anyone out there using this jack on a RV3?
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  #39  
Old 06-12-2012, 08:24 AM
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larrynew larrynew is offline
 
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This picture of a punctured Falco always reminds me to make sure the attachment point on the jack is well secured.

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  #40  
Old 06-12-2012, 03:13 PM
jim miller jim miller is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Tullahoma, Tennessee
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I am going to try to post photo of just complete wing jack. It is
welded from 1 3/8 sq tube and a piece of 3 inch c-channel. Note the
muffler clamps threaded thru 1/2 holes requiring no welding and easy
replacement. Paint is John Deere green from Lowe's.
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