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01-29-2012, 07:16 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 1,069
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engine pics.
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Ryan Allen, CFII
RV7 N612RA, flying since july 2012
E-170/175
RV10 Tail Kit complete, Wings 90%, fuse on order
Acro Sport 2, building
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01-29-2012, 07:18 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 1,069
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__________________
Ryan Allen, CFII
RV7 N612RA, flying since july 2012
E-170/175
RV10 Tail Kit complete, Wings 90%, fuse on order
Acro Sport 2, building
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01-29-2012, 07:24 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ridgeland, SC
Posts: 2,584
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Looking good Ryan!
Tom
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Tom Swearengen, TS Flightlines LLC, AS Flightlines
Joint Venture with Aircraft Specialty
Teflon Hose Assemblies for Experimentals
Proud Vendor for RV1, Donator to VAF
RV7 Tail Kit Completed, Fuse started-Pay as I go Plan
Ridgeland, SC
www.tsflightlines.com, www.asflightlines.com
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01-29-2012, 07:49 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,642
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Lots of wires below and to the left of the oil filler tube that look like they are free-floating. Can you ties those up? Especially the 6AWG main buss wire, but also the little ones if possible.
Also, can't tell from the angle of the pic, but any chance the stainless steel braided manifold pressure hose and SCAT tubing might rub?
Will the SCAT tubing rub on the engine mount or other items? (Being connected to both the exhaust and moving engine, there's likely to be a lot of vibration or moving of the SCAT.) I didn't like Van's stainless steel straps holding the SCAT because they were so sharp, but did use a couple ~2" adel clamps in places.
Zip ties around engine mount: might be worth wrapping the mount with some self-fusing tape first as it both protects the mount and helps keep the zip ties in place.
Another pic angle issue: Big black hose near mount and braided oil cooler lines? Are they going to be rubbing each other and/or the mount?
There may be others, but it looks like you're making good progress, Ryan. As you may guess, my philosophy was to positively secure everything that could possible chafe on anything else, leaving just enough slack for engine movement.
Hope this helps.
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Steve M.
Ellensburg WA
RV-9 Flying, 0-320, Catto
Donation reminder: Jan. 2021
Last edited by alpinelakespilot2000 : 01-29-2012 at 07:55 PM.
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01-29-2012, 09:09 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Big Sandy, WY
Posts: 2,567
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Take a $2 pair of hardware store sidecutters. Grind/file or belt sand the outside of the edges into a nice flush cutter. Then go around and nip all your tyrap stubs flush & smooth. That way you won't get blood all over your nice engine. Also, is it me or are the red rocker gaskets flipped 180?
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Actual repeat offender.
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01-29-2012, 09:33 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: KRTS
Posts: 1,798
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That's purty. Love the exhaust!
What did you use on the firewall and where did you get that gucci looking airfilter collar?
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Next?, TBD
IAR-823, SOLD
RV-8, SOLD
RV-7, SOLD
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01-30-2012, 12:13 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sweden, 67" North
Posts: 68
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Ignition leads should not be clamped to a fixed point like the engine mount, clamp them to the engine all the way to prevent it from streching and vibrations... 
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Dennis Isaksson
G?llivare, Sweden
Grew up with an RV-4, SE-XIO
Now: RV-8, Showplanes Fastback. #83218 Under construction, SE-XXO
Engine and avionic installation in progress
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01-30-2012, 12:36 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,866
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Seeing as you're asking for constructive comments.
I like your use of steel fittings but they're not all steel for some reason. For instance you've got steel at one end of an oil hose and aluminium at the other end of the same hose. I'm not certain of the logic there.
The ducted air onto the alternator will not do any good. It's pointed at the hot outflow air region of the alternator rather than at the rear where the intake and diodes are. Ten out of ten for intention, but 1 out of 10 for execution.
Oil fires can be more ugly that fuel fires (you can turn the fuel off but not the oil) so I think fire sleeves on the oil lines are in order.
I don't see any coloured torque marker on any B-nuts, or on any fasteners for that matter. It may be there but I don't see it. How do you know that everything is properly torqued up in your very crucial FWF area. If I was you I would go over EVERY B-nut and fastener and retorque it, and then mark it.
And yes, the wiring is generally way too chaotic and unrestrained for my liking (including the spark plug leads above the engine).
__________________
You’re only as good as your last landing 
Bob Barrow
RV7A
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01-30-2012, 07:16 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 1,069
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WOW, Yall have good eyes.. Ok I couldn't figure out how quote text and reply....so I'll try to answer to some of this..
1. wires on left side, red and white, hanging loose and chaotic
I agree, although I have not spent time on these yet....so they are still on my list to do.
2. Zip ties on engine mount.
Any that you see are not permanent
3. big black hose near oil cooler rubbing
That hose will be cut and routed soon. It will T into the manifold pressure tubes off the PMAGs. I will be sure though it isn't rubbing...thanks
4. Rocker Gaskets backwards
Wow...at first I thought how could you tell that by a photo.. then I looked at the photo again and it is clear as day. They look backwards to me too. good catch. These will be flipped
5. Red Airfilter coller?
This is Rod Bower's Ram Air set up..
6. steel fittings vs. aluminum
No logic here. I recall only a few places that the steel fittings were required or highly recommended, the prop gov port in front of the engine and the oil cooler fittings.. I went with alum on the rest becuase will that's what Vans supplied.. good, bad, indifrent?
7. ducted blast air onto altenator
Yes..in the pic it is doing nothing. I was trying to figure out how the best way to accomplish this..also I wasn't sure where the air should be aimed at. I have another post specifically on this topic. It will be a 10 when I am done with it.
8. Firesleeves on oil lines
I went with the Vans lines provided in the fwf kit. They didn't supply fire sleeved oil lines...that is why I have them. But can and will add a firesleeve here too...no prob..thanks
9. color torque on b-nuts..etc
check that, will go back and double check all and mark appropriately..
10. And yes, the wiring is generally way too chaotic and unrestrained for my liking (including the spark plug leads above the engine).
The spark plug leads on top of the engine...I thought I did pretty good here looking at others. What would you suggest?
__________________
Ryan Allen, CFII
RV7 N612RA, flying since july 2012
E-170/175
RV10 Tail Kit complete, Wings 90%, fuse on order
Acro Sport 2, building
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01-30-2012, 07:33 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miyu1975
The spark plug leads on top of the engine...I thought I did pretty good here looking at others. What would you suggest?
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Many builders really struggle to achieve tidy, restrained wiring (including ignition leads) so the benchmark is pretty low in this area and quite often it's the blind leading the blind.
I've noted a couple of points on one of your photos where the spark plug leads are going to just flop up and down on engine components. That's a no-no. It's not good for the leads to abrade on the push rod shrouds....and it's a bit freaky for them to abrade on the stainless fuel injector lines.
My set-up is a bit different because I have ignition coils located over the engine but you might be interested in how I dealt with proper restraint and separation of the plug leads. My leads touch nothing. Perhaps you could also fabricate brackets and support them with adel clamps off the pushrod shrouds as I did. Here's a couple of pix bearing in mind that there must be many ways to achieve a desired result.

__________________
You’re only as good as your last landing 
Bob Barrow
RV7A
Last edited by Captain Avgas : 01-30-2012 at 07:39 PM.
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