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01-25-2012, 03:03 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: GTA, Ontario
Posts: 826
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Should I ?
The age old question...should I buy the engine with the prop strike and roll the dice?
I have a line of a O-360-A4A. It has a solid crank and had a strike at idle where it hit a hanger. Looking at $4500, with all accessories. I know full well that the Lycoming AD will have to be done. Everything could be good, or it could not. I have an engine guy (works at a certfied engine shop) who will do it on the side for me.
Potential f many pit falls versus an engine from Aerosport, Aerotec and so on.
For anyone that has gone this route and "rebuilt" an engine that had a prop strike, was it worth it, or would you have done things differently?
Thanks
Don
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01-25-2012, 03:16 PM
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Senior Curmudgeon
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,408
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Wood or metal prop?
Solid part of a hangar, or just the skin?
You could see if the seller will make a deal to refund the price if the inspection shows a certain level of damage, you pay for the inspection.
Have you checked with a couple shops to see what the core value is??
Negotiate man, negotiate!
__________________
Mike Starkey
VAF 909
Rv-10, N210LM.
Flying as of 12/4/2010
Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011 
Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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01-25-2012, 03:21 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: lake charles, La.
Posts: 699
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wow
That is a really good price, if it were me I might give it a try. I am still trying to figure out how to afford a nice new shiny engine. What are the differences between the a1a and the a4a? Just the solid crank? I want a c/s prop so I would have to have one with that capability. Good luck, that engine just might turn out to be a jewel in the rough.
bird
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Bird
rv8 entire airframe at airport now, painting done, intersection and gear upper and lower fairings done, maybe order engine around first of year or before the next rate increase.
"to fly is a privilege that I am so thankful to God for"
http://www.mykitlog.com/tcb328/
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01-25-2012, 03:31 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Louisville, Ga
Posts: 7,840
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Maybe.
Don, if the guy will gaurantee the crankshaft, it would seal the deal for me. We did a prop-strike 160 horse Lyc on my buddy's airplane and replaced the pin in the crank gear and the retainer bolt, complying with Lyc's directives. The flange dialed OK and it's back to flying.
Best,
__________________
Pierre Smith
RV-10, 510 TT
RV6A (Sojourner) 180 HP, Catto 3 Bl (502Hrs), gone...and already missed
Air Tractor AT 502B PT 6-15 Sold
Air Tractor 402 PT-6-20 Sold
EAA Flight Advisor/CFI/Tech Counselor
Louisville, Ga
It's never skill or craftsmanship that completes airplanes, it's the will to do so,
Patrick Kenny, EAA 275132
Dues gladly paid!
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01-25-2012, 04:42 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
Posts: 5,668
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Are you feeling Lucky... I would plan on a new crank, if you don't need it then great, if you do then at least you went in knowing that was a real possibility.
__________________
Walt Aronow, DFW, TX (52F)
EXP Aircraft Services LLC
Specializing in RV Condition Inspections, Maintenance, Avionics Upgrades
Dynamic Prop Balancing, Pitot-Static Altmeter/Transponder Certification
FAA Certified Repair Station, AP/IA/FCC GROL, EAA Technical Counselor
Authorized Garmin G3X Dealer/Installer
RV7A built 2004, 1700+ hrs, New Titan IO-370, Bendix Mags
Website: ExpAircraft.com, Email: walt@expaircraft.com, Cell: 972-746-5154
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01-25-2012, 05:01 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: GTA, Ontario
Posts: 826
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Snake eyes?
Little info about the actual impact, but he will refund within 30 days, so...I'll be in a hurry to have it inspected and the crank NDT'd. Fortunately, my father is a NDT tech so that will be free of charge.
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01-25-2012, 05:11 PM
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Senior Curmudgeon
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,408
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Have your dad check the guts of the accessory case also (and oil pump?).
Might check with Mahlon for a list of items to check, and specs.
__________________
Mike Starkey
VAF 909
Rv-10, N210LM.
Flying as of 12/4/2010
Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011 
Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
Last edited by Mike S : 01-25-2012 at 05:15 PM.
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01-25-2012, 05:35 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,544
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Sounds like a good deal to me. Get the thing stripped down and send the crank out to get it checked over. If the seller will give you thirty days you can probably ask that he extends that until the prop is verified. Your engine guy can make the call on what other parts need to be sent away.
Good luck!
__________________
Tom Martin RV1 pilot 4.6hours!
CPL & IFR rated
EVO F1 Rocket 1000 hours,
2010 SARL Rocket 100 race, average speed of 238.6 knots/274.6mph
RV4, RV7, RV10, two HRIIs and five F1 Rockets
RV14 Tail dragger
Fairlea Field
St.Thomas, Ontario Canada, CYQS
fairleafield@gmail.com
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01-25-2012, 06:32 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 669
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I don't think you need to split the case to do replace the drive gear dowel pin. So if that's all to be done, you won't get a look at the crank. You do have to pull of the back (accessory housing)
The A4# is a solid crank (versus an A1# or A3#) and can never drive a CS prop.
I think if it were me, and my checking the circumstances and intuition was to go forward (and it is a very good price), I might be thinking of doing the dowel pin and dial checking the crank and then stopping until I had it flying. This assumes you're okay with a FP prop. This engine wouldn't have break in limitations right around the time you start test flying. You could put phase I on it and at some later point do an overhaul when / if needed.
Dan
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RV7A (N7101) - Flying 10/2008
CFI- SE/ME/Inst
A&P
KC2ZEL
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01-25-2012, 08:34 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: GTA, Ontario
Posts: 826
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Thanks
I'm definately going with a fixed pitch so the A4A is a great fit. A friend of mine who's an AME mentioned that if you're going to strike a prop, it's better to do it with the solid shaft vs the hollow. Makes sense....for the crank anyway.
I have an engine guy that will do a complete overhaul for $2500 labour plus parts..we'll see what happens in a couple of days. Not knowing enough about engine overhauls yet, is that a good price?
The crank was dialed in to .008 and there are "assurances" that the flange is not bent at all. I'll have my NDT guy (Dad) see about any deficiencies with the guts and accessories as well. All Iknow is that it was a metal prop and it went into the hanger at idle.
If I get it, it will be awhile before it gets mounted. I will be adding injection and an inverted system as well if I do pick it up.
Lots to consider.
Thanks for the input folks!
Don
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