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01-17-2012, 12:35 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Abilene, TX
Posts: 724
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2-10 Switch For Wig-Wag
Okay, I've looked at so many switches & diagrams my head is swimming. I want to use a S700 2-10 switch (B&C) to operate my lights for either wig-wag or always on. The switch position & operation would be:
o BOTH
o WIG-WAG
o OFF
I found this: http://docs.rapidlibrary.com/documen...10+Switch+.pdf
...which looks like what I'm looking for. Anybody recognize this?
Does the note: "2 of 4 diodes in a bridge rectifier or 2 schotkey assemblies" mean the use of a diode like B&C sells for E-Buss?....and the schotkey assemblies like Perihelion sells?
Would be the wig-wag module be like that which B&C sells?
Also, I'm using the stock 75w halogens Van's sells in the wingtips. Therefore, I don't 'think' I need the inrush limiters...right?
I know there are many ways to skin this cat, but my panel holes are drilled, placards have been engraved and I need to use the 2-10 switch.
I'm feeling pretty lame about this stuff right now. Any help would be highly appreciated.
Thanks!
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Sam Evans
RV7-A O-360 C/S
VAF#812
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01-17-2012, 12:42 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 3,778
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http://www.bandc.biz/pdfs/SSF-1_Information.pdf
Mine are setup like the diagram at the bottom... schroll down 2nd diagram in line with diode. 
__________________
Reiley
Retired N622DR - Serial #V7A1467
VAF# 671
Repeat Offender / Race 007
Friend of the RV-1
Last edited by LifeofReiley : 01-17-2012 at 12:47 PM.
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01-17-2012, 12:57 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Newport, TN
Posts: 7,496
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New technology is available now that completely replaces the flasher relay with a solid state solution. You can still use the single switch.
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...84&postcount=6
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01-17-2012, 01:05 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Abilene, TX
Posts: 724
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Did that work for you, Brantel? If so, would you happen to have a wiring diagram?
edit: found the wiring diagrams in the documentation...
Thanks
__________________
Sam Evans
RV7-A O-360 C/S
VAF#812
Last edited by TX7A : 01-17-2012 at 01:13 PM.
Reason: pulled my head out...
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01-17-2012, 01:52 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Newport, TN
Posts: 7,496
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Works better than great. And it is not load dependent like the flasher relay.
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01-17-2012, 02:01 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: KTCY
Posts: 643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LifeofReiley
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Ours too. Works like a champ...
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Dave & Trina
RV-9A Flying  - 330 Hrs. Painted  Finishing the interior.
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01-17-2012, 04:36 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Abilene, TX
Posts: 724
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Decisions....decisions
Looks like $40-$45 for the solid state system Brantel suggested, and $28 for the B&C diode and wig-wag module. As mentioned, probably less current draw for the solid state model and a maybe less expensive switch. Neither system looks to be difficult to wire-up.
Could be a wash.
__________________
Sam Evans
RV7-A O-360 C/S
VAF#812
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01-17-2012, 05:26 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hopkinsville, KY
Posts: 957
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Here how I did mine
__________________
Bobby Hester - Builder/Pilot/A&P
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
N857BH RV7A XP-O360 - Garmin G3X ADS-B IN/OUT 2020 Compliant
Web site: http://www.newtech.com/bobbyhester/RVSite.htm
Dec. 2019 VAF donator - alot better than any magazine subscription
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01-17-2012, 05:46 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 3,778
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Yup... the flashers are available @ NAPA. Why would you want to tie yourself to the wiring and a solid state unit. The flasher is plug and play, and cheap.  A Basic Diode, Flasher and a Switch... The diode can be purchased a Radio Shack.
__________________
Reiley
Retired N622DR - Serial #V7A1467
VAF# 671
Repeat Offender / Race 007
Friend of the RV-1
Last edited by LifeofReiley : 01-17-2012 at 05:48 PM.
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01-17-2012, 05:50 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Newport, TN
Posts: 7,496
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Hu?
Wiring is required for both and it can use the same switch.
The SS one works when one bulb burns out, the relay flasher won't.
The SS one works with HIDs, the relay flasher would not when I tried it with HID's.
The SS one works with LEDs, there is not enough current on some LED's to drive the flasher relay. One can add load resistors to the circuit to make it work but that is not efficient.
The SS one won't wear out, at least not any time soon with normal operation. There are tons or reports of the flasher relay giving up the ghost.
The SS one has selectable flash patterns, to change the speed on the flasher relay, you have to perform surgery and change the timing circuit.
The SS one does not require a diode, the flasher relay requires the diode which always runs one side at a lower voltage than the other.
Last edited by Brantel : 01-17-2012 at 06:35 PM.
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