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  #1  
Old 01-14-2012, 11:01 PM
MNellis MNellis is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Georgtown, TX
Posts: 90
Default Thoughts on F640/F639 Floor

I cut and fit the pilot side forward seat pan (F-640, the sheet the control stick comes out of) and I'm concerned since things are not "looking" right. I followed the dimensions on the plans but that doesn't always mean it's correct.

This first picture shows the control column attachment to the spar bulkhead. On page 37 of the plans it shows a "Rev 3" that notes a "reverse flange on F-633" which is the control column mount. Below is a picture of that area. As you can see, the control stick is not centered between the ribs. If the control column mount (F-633) was swapped with the other side it would center the stick between the ribs.



Next is the fwd seat pan on the left side. Although I cut the sheet as shown on the plans you can see the rib on the left side is exposed as is the flange on the spar bulkhead. It doesn't show on my plans, but is this portion of the spar bulkhead flange suppose to be removed to get full forward stick movement?

Logic tells me that the cut out for the stick opening should line up with the seat rib flange on the left and right side and also with the spar bulkhead flange. I think I cut the opening correctly since the control stick is in the center. I'm hoping I didn't make a mistake when positioning the seat floor ribs but I haven't gone back and measured those yet.

I sure would appreciate any thoughts the group might have regarding this operation.



and another view.


Last edited by MNellis : 01-14-2012 at 11:12 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-15-2012, 12:37 AM
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OneCharlieKilo OneCharlieKilo is offline
 
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Location: Poulsbo, WA
Posts: 208
Default need to trim flanges

Looks to me like you're right on track.

I don't have my drawings handy but should be reflected in there where to trim as necessary to get full travel.
Pictures below taken during construction of my -6A.

Pilot side:




Passenger side:




A few other pictures on my web site at (it's actually page talking about my electrical system, but shows area under the seat pans):

http://rv6aproject.ckhand.com/panelA...ctricalPg7.htm
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  #3  
Old 01-16-2012, 06:55 PM
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GAHco GAHco is offline
 
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Location: Paso Robles, CA
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Thumbs up Totaly Awesome!

I am many years into my six, and just put in the floorboards.

I am getting ready for the control sticks, and guess what?

I saw your Photos of the controls

I picture is worth a thousand words, Thanks.

Your build site is well done, Thx x2
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  #4  
Old 01-16-2012, 07:53 PM
MNellis MNellis is offline
 
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Location: Georgtown, TX
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GAHco View Post
I am many years into my six, and just put in the floorboards.

Your build site is well done, Thx x2
I'm many years into my build as well. I followed Chris's lead but I went ahead and cut the whole flange off the floor rib so I would have a straight rivet line. It's not necessary really other than for aesthetics.

Here is what I ended up with. I still have to clean up the cuts and install the new flange but you get the idea.

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  #5  
Old 01-16-2012, 11:00 PM
MNellis MNellis is offline
 
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Location: Georgtown, TX
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Default

Here is what that are looks like on the passanger side after removing the old seat rib flange and installing a new one.

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  #6  
Old 01-16-2012, 11:14 PM
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flion flion is offline
 
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Location: Flagstaff, AZ
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Default

That will work. You needn't have worried about a straight rivet line because 1) there are no rivets, just a few screws and 2) it gets covered by the seats and, optionally, stick boots.
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  #7  
Old 01-16-2012, 11:15 PM
Aden Rich Aden Rich is offline
 
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Location: Port Angeles, Wash
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Default RV-6 seat ribs

If you know about this before hand, you can reverse the flanges on the two seat ribs so you don't have to cut them down where the stick is. You just swap the left one for the right one and the flange points the other way.
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:39 PM
MNellis MNellis is offline
 
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Location: Georgtown, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aden Rich View Post
If you know about this before hand, you can reverse the flanges on the two seat ribs so you don't have to cut them down where the stick is. You just swap the left one for the right one and the flange points the other way.
That's a good point and typically one that first time builders will not know about. It's one of those things that might be in builder sites and why it's a good idea to scour the net and read as much as you can from those that started before us. The real early builders of the late '80's early '90's had their hands full.
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  #9  
Old 01-17-2012, 12:37 PM
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flion flion is offline
 
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Default Swapping left/right ribs

Won't work if the floor pans are pre-punched. I can't remember if mine were or not...
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  #10  
Old 01-17-2012, 05:08 PM
MNellis MNellis is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flion View Post
Won't work if the floor pans are pre-punched. I can't remember if mine were or not...
Other than the Horizontal and Vertical stabilizers nothing came pre-punched on my -6.

Mike
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