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01-04-2012, 08:20 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: In New Braunfels, ist das Leben schön!
Posts: 871
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Crankshaft - Hollow or Solid?
I'm ordering my engine very soon and can't decide between a hollow crankshaft or solid. I've already decided 0-360, carb, Sensenich fixed pitch and the vendor. I am NOT planning a constant speed upgrade. Flight profile will include frequent positive g aerobatics up to limit. Hopefully this won't be my last RV so I may sell it in the future. A few questions: - Are there any differences in prop RPM restrictions with the different cranks?
- Are there any problems or restrictions with hollow cranks due to frequent high g maneuvering?
- Any significant value in resale with a hollow crank?
- Any other concerns I should have between the two?
Searched the archives and Sensenich website but not sure I even know the questions to ask. Almost all of my time is in front of turbines with very very little behind pistons. Thanks for the help.
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Larry New
RV-7A - Flying 900+ hrs
RV-10 - Flying 2.9 hrs
48 States in 7 Days!
VAF Paid - Annual Autodraft
Last edited by larrynew : 01-04-2012 at 08:26 AM.
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01-04-2012, 08:29 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,523
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Yes.. hollow.. even if you don't need it, your buyer may want it.. why restrict the pool of buyers?
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Radomir
RV-7A sold
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01-04-2012, 08:42 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Destin
Posts: 1,543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radomir
Yes.. hollow.. even if you don't need it, your buyer may want it.. why restrict the pool of buyers?
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agree with this
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01-04-2012, 09:04 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Delta, CO/Atlin, BC
Posts: 2,389
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I went cheap (by about $300) and got the solid crank. If I had it to do over, there seems little reason not to spend the extra on the hollow crank (there are some potential issues with the plugs, but nothing major that I can tell) JUST IN CASE you change your mind (or, as noted above, it doesn't restrict your buyer pool). In terms of airplane $, 300 is pretty small potatoes.
greg
and, the hollow crank might just save you a pound or two.
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Greg Arehart
RV-9B (Big tires) Tipup @AJZ or CYSQ
N 7965A
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01-04-2012, 09:32 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Chesterfield, Missouri
Posts: 4,514
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Arehart
I went cheap (by about $300) and got the solid crank. If I had it to do over, there seems little reason not to spend the extra on the hollow crank (there are some potential issues with the plugs, but nothing major that I can tell) JUST IN CASE you change your mind (or, as noted above, it doesn't restrict your buyer pool). In terms of airplane $, 300 is pretty small potatoes.
greg
and, the hollow crank might just save you a pound or two.
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Actually, the solid crank weighs 8 pounds more than the hollow crank, at least that was the info I got from BPE a couple years ago. The standard Lycoming kit came with a hollow crank, there would have been a delay getting the solid crank, so we went with the hollow crank and left the aft plug not installed to run with the Catto prop.
Go hollow. The next owner will appreciate it.
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RV-12 Build Helper
RV-7A...Sold #70374
The RV-8...Sold #83261
I'm in, dues paid 2019 This place is worth it!
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01-04-2012, 03:39 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: pittsburgh pa
Posts: 533
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It is not as easy as just bolting on a C/S prop
and getting the in crank plugs right - there is an oil relief port in the nose bearing of F/P engines that vent oil out of the nose bearing back to the crankcase. This port must be plugged when going to a C/S prop.
The only way to do it is split the cases.
There are several threads regarding this on the forums and there is an ECI tech bulletin regarding it. Since Lycoming never built engines intended to switch from F/P to C/S, they do not address this and many A&P's aren't aware either.
I would go with the hollow crank anyway - lighter and does give you the option, just not as easy as some believe.
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Gary Reed
RV-6 IO-360
WW 200 RV now an Al Hartzell for improved CG
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