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  #1  
Old 12-26-2011, 08:44 PM
HBpilot HBpilot is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ocala, FL
Posts: 76
Default Drill out rivets ?

Hi,
I was riveting the brackets, rear spar on the VS and could not get these rivets the way I wanted. I first used the pneumatic squeezer and for some reason, it would not squeeze them. Is it possible that the rivets are too long for the squeezer ?
I then used the hand squeezer but I guess I had to squeeze so hard, that I couldn't have them nice and straight. Well, I guess I should have been bucking.

Anyway, could you please take a look at these pictures and tell me if you think they are ok or if you see any that should be drilled out :

https://picasaweb.google.com/1164834...eat=directlink

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 12-26-2011, 08:51 PM
RV7AJeremy's Avatar
RV7AJeremy RV7AJeremy is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Gilbert AZ
Posts: 414
Default Drill out

I would replace the one in pic #2, the middle one looks like you could drive a little more. I am sure others with more experience will chime in, but that is what I would do. I am half way through my wing kit so I really don't have that much experience.
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  #3  
Old 12-26-2011, 08:53 PM
fehdxl fehdxl is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bellevue, NE
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Default

Hard to be absolutely sure, but I'd say re-do the right rivet, and smash the left and center a bit more. Do you have a rivet gage?

Also, make sure that you adjust the pneumatic squeezer so that the smashed rivet hight is at the end of the travel. The most powerful part of its stroke is at the end...and use 80+ psi of air pressure.

I'm sure some of the other experts will be along shortly to give you more of a consensus.

Hope that helps,

-Jim
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  #4  
Old 12-26-2011, 08:56 PM
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RV7AJeremy RV7AJeremy is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Gilbert AZ
Posts: 414
Default This is helpful

I used this technique to set those rivets, worked like a champ..

http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1803209366
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  #5  
Old 12-26-2011, 08:57 PM
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Walt Walt is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
Posts: 5,668
Default

All except pic 9 look clinched (bent over) and/or underdriven. If you can see the edge of the hole they need work. You may be able to drive a few of them a bit more but the ones that are bent over will usually not get any better.

"I was riveting the brackets, rear spar on the VS and could not get these rivets the way I wanted. I first used the pneumatic squeezer and for some reason, it would not squeeze them."

For the above you sometimes have to squeeze twice, the squeezer has maximum force in a limited range towards the begining of the stroke so set them half way reset the sqeezer then come back and set them the rest of the way.
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Last edited by Walt : 12-26-2011 at 09:01 PM.
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  #6  
Old 12-26-2011, 09:01 PM
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DanBaier DanBaier is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 669
Default

If the ram in the pneumatic squeezer isn't set correctly, it can't do the squeeze properly. If you hit it a couple of times with the pneumatic squeezer, the rivet may have work hardened enough that no amount of additional force will clean up the rivet and that could explain why following with the hand squeezer didn't work out.

These rivets look like they may not set completely and some may a little heeled over.

If it were mine, I'd drill them out and try again. My first choice of weapon would be the hand squeezer - last weapon of choice would be the gun/bar.

Go carefully so as not to enlarge the holes.

I'm sure there are many, many other views - YMMV.

Dan
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  #7  
Old 12-26-2011, 09:07 PM
jay.pearlman jay.pearlman is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Port Angeles WA
Posts: 250
Default Rivets again

I suggest that you take two scrap pieces of aluminum with many holes of the right size and practice. The rivet size tools define the correct length and measure the height and diameter of the set rivet. Event after years, there are rivets I need to check.
Pressure settings on the squeezer are important.
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  #8  
Old 12-26-2011, 11:35 PM
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DCat22 DCat22 is offline
 
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Location: Houston, TX
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RV7AJeremy View Post
I used this technique to set those rivets, worked like a champ..

http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1803209366
Side note...do you actually need the special base plate featured in that video? I wasn't sure of it's purpose, since you can put the same sets in the normal base plate too.
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  #9  
Old 12-26-2011, 11:46 PM
PCHunt PCHunt is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,670
Default Find a coach

Serge, My best advice to you would be to look around the Ocala area for an EAA chapter, and find a sheet metal guru to give you some hands-on instruction.

Nothing beats having someone show you how to set good rivets. And in the process, you will get good coaching on how to properly drill them out, as well. And it all takes practice, and more practice. Do your practice on the scrap stuff instead of a real part.

There must be lots of experts within a few miles of you that would love to get you up to speed.

A picture may be worth a thousand words, but hands on training is worth a thousand videos!
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  #10  
Old 12-27-2011, 12:11 AM
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CPSONE CPSONE is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 216
Default replace

As others have said replace the club foot ones, drive some more etc...
But noticed that in pic 5 the center one looks like it has a fracture in it.
Check it/them with a magnifying glass and replace any that are cracked too.
I had that problem wih some old rivets once (search "old rivets: thread on here), bought new ones and had no more problem with cracks.
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