Camloc Install

N184JG · #1 05-19-2006, 09:39 AM

I am ready to install Camloc mounting strip to the fuselage.What size strip did you use, thickness,length,width and where did you buy it?

Vern · #2 05-19-2006, 09:53 AM

I sheared some .063 about 2" wide and cut out a series of notches between each camlock mounting point.

BillC · #3 05-19-2006, 10:25 AM

I ordered 3 strips of 2"X48"-.063 (2sq ft) from Van's. Material was not too expensive but they charged $5.00 per cut ($15 total). If I had known that I would have just ordered a 6"X48" piece from Spruce and cut/sheared it myself. Have not mounted or cut notches yet.

Scott Will · #4 05-19-2006, 11:03 AM

I used .050 because that's all I had available. Called Milspec and they said it'll work just fine! Mine is just a tad under 2" wide. The first time I used .063 and cut it too narrow - that's why I had to use .050 later. Also scalloped between the camlocs. Mine are spaced about 3.5" apart.

Jekyll · #5 05-19-2006, 11:03 AM

Some thoughts I've been noodeling over as I ponder my soon-to-happen camlock install.

I'll be putting the mounting strip on the fuse before I install the engine and cowling so, how do I lay out the locations for the camlocks so they will be located correctly vis-a-vis the top/bottom cowling split line. I don't want a F/W camlock falling on the split line (or do I?). Does anyone have a good locating method to prevent this?

Spacing: 3"or 4"?

Are folks stiffening the cowling with the bead line suggested by MILSPEC?

Is the occurance of cowling bulging between the camlocks indicative of cowling structural issues or of unballanced pressure in the cooling system? Maybe the air outlets need to be opened a bit to reduce downside pressure. Do any of our thermodynamically inclined listers have any thoughts on this?

Jekyll

pierre smith · #6 05-19-2006, 01:33 PM

Hi Jekyll,
Van has engineered the outlets correctly and I'm afraid that if you mess with them, it's gonna cost you airspeed and poorer cooling.

We spaced our camlocks at 4" intervals and the plane's been to redline with no bulging since the backside of the baffling is way forward of the cowl rear. Find the top center on the cowl and go left and right 2" and those are the first two camlock positions. Then measure 4" increments until you just do go past the top longeron. If you go further down, you may have interference from the last camlock when you try to pull the vertical hinge pin out that holds the lower cowl to the firewall. Clear as mud, huh? Thought so!

pierre smith · #7 05-19-2006, 01:51 PM

Lets see if I can show you what I mean..........exactly,

Jekyll · #8 05-19-2006, 02:42 PM

Pierre:

Thanks, I should have mentioned I'm going with the full Monty, camlock speaking. I intend to have a 0 hinge installation.

Starting TDC makes sense. I'll be going to the bottom of the lower cowling and will also be joining the halves with them.

Your picture sure settled the mud.

Jekyll
7A firewall Fwd

7pilot · #9 05-19-2006, 03:04 PM

I purchased enough camlocs to continue all the way around. Layout is a big concern to me as well. I definitely don't want to end up screwing up the layout. I haven't honestly given it a lot of thought yet. If someone else is doing top and bottom and has a plan, I would like to hear it.

Stewart

Finley Atherton · #10 05-19-2006, 03:35 PM

See the thread "CAMLOC FIREWALL SPACING" I ended up going:
15 camlocs on the top cowl gives a spacing of about 3.5"
10 camlocs on the sides of the lower cowl (5 each side ) spacing 3.6"
6 camlocs on the bottom of the lower cowl (3each side) spacing 4.7"
I figured it would be better to have camlocs near the join line (at the firewall) so I placed the first camlocs in the top cowl near the hinge join line between the top and bottom cowl (both sides), then measured the distance between and calculated an even spacing. Likewise, for the lower cowl sides, I placed the first camlocs near the join line and the lower ones near the corner then caculated the spacing between.
Fin
9A