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  #31  
Old 01-08-2012, 01:55 PM
Reiff Preheat Systems Reiff Preheat Systems is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Ft. Atkinson, WI
Posts: 66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikerkba View Post
In the morning, the oil temps were 91 degrees and cylinder probe was 102, roughly a 65 to 70 degree rise. Much more than needed, we thought, since the goal is to get oil temperature and CHT at least above freezing and, ideally, to 40 or so. .
I would urge you to raise the bar. Using 40F as the goal is better than nothing but I think the goal should be 80 or 100, or more. I like seeing the oil temp in the green when the engine starts.

Per our FAQ #20 ( www.reiffpreheat.com/FAQ.htm#QA20 ) :
20. At what temperature is preheating necessary?

That depends on how you define "necessary".

If you refer to your Lycoming or Continental engine operator's manual you will find that they typically recommend preheating if your engine is less than 20F.

But that's pretty cold in our view. We've always said that the closer your engine is to operating temperature when you start it, the happier it will be. That's because the bearing clearances, piston & ring fit, and oil temp & viscosity are where they are designed to be.

"It is generally accepted that a cold startup is considered to be anything below 60 F. However, an engine at rest is always cold relative to its normal operating temperatures; therefore, the oil is also thick relative to its designed operating viscosity." Harold Tucker, Director of Technical Information and Training, ConocoPhillips Commercial Lubricants. Aircraft Maintenance Technology magazine, Sept 2008
Also be aware that when preheating the oil temp gauge does not tell you what the oil temp is, it only tells you the temp of the sensor on the back of the engine. When we do our testing we drop a thermocouple down into the the oil. For long term heating (overnight) temps will be stabilized and the oil and sensor will be about the same temp. But some posts above refer to heating times of 10-15 minutes getting the oil to summer temp or whatever. You don't know the oil temp unless the sensor is in the oil, and 10-15 min is not going to raise it much no matter what kind of heater you use, or its wattage.
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RV-4 N214RR Lyc 360, CS, P-Mags
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  #32  
Old 01-08-2012, 02:18 PM
gerrychuck gerrychuck is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Moose Jaw, SK, Canada
Posts: 550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reiff Preheat Systems View Post
If using a home made space heater set up, I suggest NOT placing it on the floor unless the doors are open and the hangar is well ventilated. Gasoline fumes accumulate on the floor. Airplane go boom.
Good point; up to now my heater has been on the floor. I be changing that now.

Also, re: Nonstop Aviation's butterfly valve for a firewall mounted oil cooler - I have just started using that system and so far really like it. Mine had to be mounted at the cooler itself (still on the inlet side, though) rather than at the other end of the scat hose on the rear baffle, due to clearance issues with the oil dipstick/filler stalk. Works beautifully and allows very fine control of oil temp in flight with the push/pull cable included in the kit.
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Moose Jaw Saskatchewan
RV6A "Second Wind" C-GERZ (born N242UL)
O-360 A1A, Sensenich FP prop

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  #33  
Old 01-18-2012, 07:57 PM
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lockeed lockeed is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Gaspe, Qc
Posts: 139
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Hey guys, thx for the great comments and ideas. Please post some pictures of your winter/heating setup if you get a chance.

One question I now have: do any of you swtich to a "lighter" engine oil during winter operation? I was looking at ordering the usual 15W/50 Aeroshell oil for my next oil change and I started to read about oil...

Aeroshell have the W80 Plus, which they say:

Shell Oil W80 Plus introduces the anti-wear and anti-corrosion additives of AeroShell W100 Plus engine oil into a lighter, single-grade oil for use in colder climates. The anti-wear additive reduces wear on start-up by forming a microscopic layer on the engine's moving parts to prevent metal-to-metal contract when there is little oil present. Combined with a corrosion inhibitor, it is designed for pilots who fly either in cooler weather or less frequently.

With the climate here in Quebec and the fact that I'll fly probably once or twice a month, what do you guys think? Should I switch during winter?

Last edited by lockeed : 01-18-2012 at 10:09 PM.
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  #34  
Old 01-19-2012, 09:23 AM
Dean Pichon Dean Pichon is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 532
Default I use W80 Plus in the winter...

I used Aeroshell 15W50 for years, but switched to W80 Plus and W100 Plus on the recommendation of an A&P. In the late fall, when I do the annual, I switch to 80 weight. In the spring, I go back to 100 weight. I have been doing this for the past couple of years and have noticed no problems. It is important, however, to have reasonably warm oil at start up. I shoot for about room temperature (60-70F). Last Sunday, the ground temp was 13F when I started the engine: the oil temp was 80F prior to start. Hanger temperature had been set to 50F. That, combined with my sump heater provided the 80F oil temperature. If you keep your plane outside, or cannot always get a good pre-heat, I would stick with the multi-viscosity oil.

Good luck,

Dean Pichon
Bolton, MA
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  #35  
Old 01-19-2012, 09:32 AM
aerhed aerhed is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Big Sandy, WY
Posts: 2,567
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The 80 is only a little thinner than 100 at cold temps. I'd stick with 15W-50 and go W100 for the summer. Forget the plus oil unless you have a 320H engine.
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  #36  
Old 01-19-2012, 01:59 PM
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lockeed lockeed is offline
 
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Location: Gaspe, Qc
Posts: 139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerhed View Post
The 80 is only a little thinner than 100 at cold temps. I'd stick with 15W-50 and go W100 for the summer. Forget the plus oil unless you have a 320H engine.
Can you please explain why you say to forget the "plus" type oils ? I want to gather some technical info and some real life experience as much as possible.
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  #37  
Old 01-20-2012, 06:32 AM
recapen recapen is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Laurel, DE
Posts: 347
Default Boots

I have boots on my control stick and will be adding them to my aileron pushrods where they enter the under-seat area.
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  #38  
Old 01-22-2012, 05:36 PM
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lockeed lockeed is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Gaspe, Qc
Posts: 139
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I decided to order a box of Exxon Elite 20W/50 oil. After my research and with the fact that I'm regularely 10 days + whitout flying, this oil is gona fit me best. The Elite already have treatments built in, particularely anti-corosion agents.

Also, for my oil cooler air valve... Since I'm in the RV trailer / Motorhome business, there is a great kit from Valterra called the Bladex cable valve. It's a 3" valve with a push/pull cable - everything you need for the job! It's just perfect, plus the valve seal 100% tight. Actualy, it can hold liquid perfectly.

I'll go that route and I'll try to post the results here so people who are looking to do something similar, will have a very good and inexpensive option.

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  #39  
Old 02-05-2012, 04:42 PM
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lockeed lockeed is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Gaspe, Qc
Posts: 139
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Just a quick update, the valve I ordered is too big. I'd have to fit it and move things around which I won't do...

Plan B....
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  #40  
Old 02-10-2012, 08:20 AM
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lockeed lockeed is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Gaspe, Qc
Posts: 139
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Quick update on the subjet. Since the air valve I wanted to use turned out to be too big... I decided to build one.

Here's a couple pics. Sorry for the quality...

It needs some finishing touches on the metal and rivets, and some sanding and paint. Right now it's on primer only.

I indicated with a red line how the cable is gona operate the valve. Of course, there's some hardware involded which is not in the picture.

I choosed a ratchet type, friction lock cable from ACS which is gona do the job just fine. I also installed 2 half rings inside the valve, one on each side of the butterfly door - opposite from each other, so the door can close against them and form a tight seal.

I didn't used the flimsy aluminium 3 " tube used by some... I choosed a 3" galvinized pipe. It's rock solid and I know it's gona last as long as the plane without ever wearing out... It weight about a pound so, I just didn't see the point of trying to save weight on this.

That's pretty much it.


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