Nuts over Nutplates

[cstanley]

I am working on my tunnel, and am having real difficulties getting the screws into the nutplates. The screws are so tight that I am tearing up the heads trying to get them in. The room is so limited in the tunnel that I have to use a shorty driver, and that doesn't help. Yes, screws and nutplates are correctly sized.

Is there some secret or technique that will help?

[ccsmith51]

When I installed my Duckworks lights in the wings of my RV-4 the instructions said to add some grease to the screw the first time it was installed in the nut plate. Otherwise the screw might break off. I now do this on the first insertion on a new nut plate.

Also, if you are working with Philips screws, put a tad of valve grinding compound on the screwdriver tip. It will securely grab the screw and you'll have little chance of stripping the head. I use valve grinding compound whenever I remove or install Philips screws and have not stripped one using that technic.

YMMV, hope this helps.

[Mark Albery]

Running a tap through them usually works.

[jchang10]

I used Boelube on all my internal screws, and anti-sieze on all my external screws into nutplates.

If the heads are bad going in, getting them out can be dicey if it can be done at all.

[JonJay]

Originally Posted by Mark Albery

Running a tap through them usually works.

This defeats the self locking properties of the nutplate. Be carefull.

[alpinelakespilot2000]

For the tunnel area, dump the phillips head screws and get some allen/socket head screws. Put an socket bit in your socket wrench. The socket wrench fits much better than a screwdriver here. Your problem should then be solved. My opinion is to not tap nutplates, especially if they are for a structural connection, but Boelube works well to loosen things up.

[jdeas]

I replaced all my small tunnel hardware with hex head screws. Used a socket wrench as well to avoid any possible scratches to the surface around the screw.

[Neal@F14]

I found this little tool invaluable for getting at philips screws in tight spots.

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...ver-92630.html




And since it uses ordinary 1/4" hex-drive bits, you can make custom-length shorter bits if needed, by sawing them down with a cutoff wheel.

[Mike S]

You can loosen up the threads with a tap-----but be sure to not run it all the way in.

I use bees wax for a lube in nutplates, I use a toilet sealing ring as my source of bees wax, and a tooth pick to insert a small dab inside the nutplate.

Two cautions for you-------one, resist the urge to use a cordless drill to run in the screws fast-------if you are using a cordless run it slowly. And that goes double if you are using stainless steel screws. And the second, dont use stainless screws if you dont need to-----or at least run a standard steel screw in first, then the stainless after the nutplate is broken in a bit.

Good tool shown above also, I use one made by Husky, has a 1/4" hex end, and a 5/16" hex on the other end which drives an adapter to a 1/4" socket driver.

[woodmanrog]

Ditto with the thread Mike just posted. The wax method works best for all lube needs including inserting cowl and fairing pins. DO NOT retap nutplates as you defeat the self locking purpose. The screws will vibrate loose if you do this.
Woodman