Reiff Preheater install

[tkatc]

This is a brief run down of my preheater install. It will not really help a "Builder" all that much but might help another "Buyer" such as myself. The instructions are pretty straight forward but I took pics along the way.

I completed the top half (cylinder bands) install today on my Reiff Turbo Preheater system. It would have gone much quicker if I had my Russian builder on site but he's union and called out sick!! I plan on doing the bottom half tomorrow.

Here is the engine before install.


This is a closer pic showing the RTV sealant near the front of the cylinder that will need to be cut in order to install the cylinder band heater.


I will have to penetrate the engine baffle because I want the plug situated near the oil dipstick door.


First order of business is to route the main harness through the baffle. I stole this idea from someone on the internet and I like how it turned out. I replaced my 4 cylinder ignition wire seal with a 6 cylinder ingition wire seal from aircraft spuce. I had to remove some material from the baffle using a dremel so the larger grommet/seal would fit.


Here is the complete top install.


Here is my sump. I am not sure where to adhere the heating pads. Ideally the flat bottom would be perfect but directions say to make sure the pad heats the oil directly. Not sure if the bottom of this sump has oil in it?? As you can see my oil drain is HIGHER than the bottom of the sump. I COULD use the side as a mounting point but the heating pad is SLIGHTLY wider than the vertical flat area. Anyone have ideas on this?


Lastly, if you see anything that looks out of place, please bring it to my attention.

[tkatc]

Learned that my sump is the cold air intake type. There is no oil on the bottom of the above picture so I had to get creative about mounting the heating pads. I found a good spot on the rear of the sump, up high on the "wings". I think it will work well. Waiting on epoxy to cure.


Other side.


Ugly duct tape hides the heating pad but you get the idea. Completeion pics to follow once epoxy cures.

[Jeff Vaughan]

Tony your are going to love your Reiff

I keep mine plugged in all the time from Nov thru April.

Allways ready to go!!!!

[tkatc]

Thanks Jeff. The worst part about install is the epoxy. Keeping it neat in such a tight area is a challenge. I went back today and "sealed" it again with JB Weld. Again, sort of a pain to work with the messy stuff in such tight quarters. Maybe she'll be ready to fly tomorrow night.

[Walt]

Tony - I would ditch the tie wraps holding the harness on top of the engine and install some adel clamps.

[tkatc]

Walt, Thanks for the input. I see what you're saying and why. I might revisit that in the future but this is what Reiff recommends so I am going to stick with this for a bit and see how it works out.

[N15JB]

Tony,

Walt is correct. It appears that there are multiple tie wraps in direct contact with your motor mount. That is a major no-no. Dirt/grit that accumulates under the tie wraps can abrade the motor mount tubes, resulting in an expensive repair/replacement.

Jim Berry
RV-10

[tkatc]

Here is the install manual. I followed it to the letter.

http://www.reiffpreheat.com/Instructions-HotBand.pdf

Jim, Walt wasn't talking about zip ties on the motor mount although I have read that is a highly debated subject. I do have a few of those as you can see but they don't do much work as the things they hold in place are minuscule.

[tkatc]

Cured epoxy pics.


Other side.