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  #1  
Old 09-22-2011, 09:42 PM
UnPossible's Avatar
UnPossible UnPossible is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 543
Default Securing Push-Pull Cables

Hey - I did a search, but did not find a clear answer. I am running a couple of Vans Push-Pull Cables through the fire wall, 1 for the butterfly valve on my oil cooler and the other for the alternate air for the engine intake.

I am struggling a bit as to how to best secure the cable as it comes throught the fire wall. (See Picture below). Vans sells a part that is described for securing the sheithing, but I'm not really sure what this part from Vans looks like. So - what is the best way to secure the cable shiething where it comes through the firewall?




Thanks,
Jason
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  #2  
Old 09-23-2011, 06:43 AM
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Default

This may be helpful.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ighlight=cable
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  #3  
Old 09-23-2011, 07:08 AM
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Greg Arehart Greg Arehart is offline
 
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Default

The more expensive option:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...owdenclamp.php

greg
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  #4  
Old 09-23-2011, 07:50 AM
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Dan Langhout Dan Langhout is offline
 
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Location: Huntsville, AL USA
Posts: 545
Default Not cheaper but . . . . .

. . . . . I made mine from an AN-832-3 steel bulkhead union and a brass compression fitting ferrule. I tried the expensive ACS fitting and frankly, it didn't work worth a **** plus it is aluminum (not fire resistant).



Run a 3/16" drill all the way through the union, and use a countersink cutter to put a bevel on the inside of one end (really should use a drill press for this).
Then take a 3/16" brass compression fitting ferrule and cut a slit in it using a thin cutoff wheel on your Dremel tool to give you a split ring. The slit is to ensure that you can get the ferrule back off the cable again after it has been tightened once.
Shorten the opposite end of the union (just so it doesn't poke through the firewall too far).



Install the fitting in the firewall like any bulkhead fitting with the beveled end on the forward side; slide the cable through the fitting, slide the brass ferrule, sleeve, and fitting nut over the cable (on the end of the fitting you cut the bevel in) and tighten the nut to secure the cable. Basically, it's just a compression fitting. The ferrule will clamp the cable VERY securely with just a small amount of torque on the nut.

This would work just as well with an aluminum fitting (AN-832-3D) and would be much cheaper (but not as fire resistant).
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Last edited by Dan Langhout : 09-23-2011 at 10:01 AM. Reason: Added Photos
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  #5  
Old 09-23-2011, 12:29 PM
jrs14855 jrs14855 is offline
 
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Location: Lake Havasu City AZ
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Default fitting

Dan- That is really slick but why not stainless??
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  #6  
Old 09-23-2011, 12:34 PM
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Dan Langhout Dan Langhout is offline
 
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Location: Huntsville, AL USA
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Default Spruce didn't have stainless

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrs14855 View Post
Dan- That is really slick but why not stainless??
That was my preference - but really, the plain steel gets the job done and is fireproof. Stainless is quite a bit more expensive than the regular steel as well. No reason not to use it other than that though!
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2020 =VAF= Dues PAID . . . . .
RV-7 N528DP slow build
First Flight July 26th, 2014
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  #7  
Old 09-23-2011, 12:37 PM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dpansier View Post
Ditto: Cheap, easy, very securely holds the cable. Highly recommended. That said, Dan's method looks like a very elegant version.
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Last edited by alpinelakespilot2000 : 09-23-2011 at 12:39 PM.
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