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  #1  
Old 05-10-2006, 08:09 PM
RV6_flyer's Avatar
RV6_flyer RV6_flyer is offline
 
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Location: NC25
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Default How do you cut Titanium?

I am looking for some tips on cutting, drilling, and working with titanium.

Why? I am planning on making a new FAB (Filtered Air Box) to carb mounting plate. I have replaced mine several times on my O-320 B2B converted to Constant Speed operation. I now have 1,849 hours on it and will need to replace it again soon. This model engine has the carb mounted as far aft as it can be so this engine would not work on an -A RV. The fiberglass is used full length without shortening on this model engine. If you built an RV and installed the FAB-320, you will know what I am talking about.

I have a piece of Titanium that is about 1 foot square by about 0.063 thick. From what I have read on the web, it is like cutting Stainless Steel, it dissipates heat slowly, high speed steel will cut it but you must cut slowly. I have tested my band saw and found it only polishes the spot where the blade touches it and I am running it at slow speed. My bench disc sander grinds away at it like it is steel.

Any cutting, grinding, drilling or other working with Titanium suggestions are requested. I have done a web search and came up with very limited information.

I purchased the Titanium on eBay several years ago.

Thanks in advance,

Gary
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  #2  
Old 05-10-2006, 09:22 PM
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mlw450802 mlw450802 is offline
 
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Default

try this site: http://www.supraalloys.com/Machining_titanium.htm
-mike

or this one: http://www.hanita.com/hanita_protected/hanita-art3.htm

Do a google search on Cutting Speeds Titanium.

Quite a bit of info there.
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Michael L Wilson
Resuming building after a 4ish year hiatus! (life got in the way)
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Last edited by mlw450802 : 05-10-2006 at 09:25 PM. Reason: add another url
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  #3  
Old 05-10-2006, 09:42 PM
hngrflyr hngrflyr is offline
 
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I would think a plasma cutter would do it. You could finish the edges with a die grinder. I've never worked with titanium, but have done much fabrication from stainless steel.

Bob Severns
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  #4  
Old 05-11-2006, 12:00 AM
N79PT N79PT is offline
 
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Default Nice shower of sparks!

I observed the industrial process of cutting titanium many years ago working a summer job. The steel company used both the ablative cutting disk method with water cooling and CNC plasma cutters. (Not for home use.) The sparks were very bright and colorful, like the 4th of July, unlike stainless they also cut. I believe the sparks were so bright we needed welding-type goggles. It seems possible it could catch your workbench on fire. Watch out!
Greg
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  #5  
Old 05-11-2006, 05:42 AM
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Rick6a Rick6a is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV6_flyer
I am looking for some tips on cutting, drilling, and working with titanium...........Any cutting, grinding, drilling or other working with Titanium suggestions are requested.......Gary
Gary,

Working with titanium is always difficult, but can be done. I have a fair amount of experience working with this metal and my RV sports it in a couple of applications including a mount for the fuel flow transducer and all the brackets mounting the exhaust system to the engine. Forget about using a metal blade in a bandsaw...it will just be trash after a few moments. The best way I have found for the home builder with common tools to approach the task is to use a fiber cutoff wheel in a die grinder which will wear down very quickly and likely require frequent replacement. Stop often and do not allow the metal to overheat. To smooth the edges of the stock, I used my 12" bench sander fitted with 80 grit paper and constantly quenched the metal as it will very quickly build up heat. Be prepared to replace the sandpaper many times. See this post for additional personal observations. http://tinyurl.com/htfja

Good luck.

Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"

Last edited by Rick6a : 05-11-2006 at 05:45 AM.
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  #6  
Old 05-11-2006, 07:16 AM
Steve Steve is offline
 
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Location: Roy, Utah
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We machine titanium all day long at work. Here's a few guidelines not knowing your specific alloy or hardness of your material. Use carbide cutters. Run them at about 200 surface feet per minute (SFM). Drills run at 25 SFM. A #30 driil would turn about 1000 rpm. RPM= (12*sfm)/(Pi*dia).
As stated earlier, grinding or sanding is problematic as the wheel loads up quickly, similar to grinding aluminum, thus requiring frequent wheel dressing or replacement.
Do not let the cutter dwell as the material quickly workhardens.

Good luck,
Steve
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  #7  
Old 05-11-2006, 07:51 PM
markscogg markscogg is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 306
Default Cracking

My FAB-360 mounting plate cracked.
Replaced with thicker aluminum plate last year. No problems yet, and the weight is neglible.
Mark
Flying -6
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