dual LSE coupler crimp instead of solder - Page 2

Gonzo24 · #11 09-14-2011, 01:06 PM

You guys hit it right on the head! Personally I was thinking that if I don't alumiprep, alodine and epoxy prime the pins before I crimp then they may fall off as I am doing an overhead break at a non towered, congested airfield full of RV haters.

Hey anyone going to Reno to get away from the hot WX in TX? I should be using slick mags with the red paint job I'm planning anyway. better use the 74" prop instead of the 72 with composite blades... could explode.

mlwynn · #12 09-15-2011, 12:03 AM

I have been scratching my head about this as well. My main issue is that I would like to finish the wiring from the ignition switches to the LSE modules before I permanently mount the engine. The wires soldered the to connector that go to the ignition switches are going to be a pain to route once I rivet on the front top skin.

Klaus is pretty adamant about leaving his wires soldered on. Another builder told me he had an issue with cold solder connections.

I am a big believer in the advantages of the crimped connectors. Still, I worry that I will somehow foul stuff up by cutting off the soldered connectors and crimping my own. Can anyone direct me to other discussions on the subject?

Decisions, decisions.

Regards,

Michael Wynn
RV 8 Wiring
San Ramon, CA

f1rocket · #13 09-15-2011, 05:21 AM

Understand where Klaus is coming from. He's probably aftaid that if you cut off the wires and re-pin them, you'll make a mistake and then blame his unit for some problem. I understand his position and don't blame him.

But, wiring is not black magic. If it makes it easier to cut the connector off, CUT IT OFF! It's just crimps and pins. No big deal as long as you have the right tool, quality pins, and the proper receptacle. Go for it, no need to torture yourself over it. I found crimping the pins to result in a better connection than me trying to clumsily get my solder iron on the right pin, etc. Crimp and snap, you're done! Call SteinAir and get the stuff to do it right and you'll be a happy camper.

David-aviator · #14 09-15-2011, 06:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by f1rocket

Which "drift" would you prefer? We could try any of the following:

1. "If you solder any of your wires your airplane will fall out of the sky"

2. "Why have electronic ignition, it doesn't save you anything"

3. "You should switch from LSE to (pick your ignition) because it is better"

I'm sure there's a dozen more. Chime in with your favorite drift topics that would fit for this thread.

Magnetos are working fine so far.

Neal@F14 · #15 09-15-2011, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by f1rocket

Chime in with your favorite drift topics that would fit for this thread.

Quote:

Originally Posted by N941WR

It will work better with a primmed tip-up tail dragger with fuel injection and a CS Catto prop.

Don't forget the chromed valve covers!

AltonD · #16 09-15-2011, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Neal@F14

Don't forget the chromed valve covers!

ANY chrome added to an airplane makes it go faster. I added a chrome pitot tube and picked up at least 5 knots. Valve covers have to be good for at least 2-3 with the cowling on (5-6 on the ground with the cowling off).