dual LSE coupler crimp instead of solder

[Gonzo24]

I have just fought the fight to get my LSE couplers that go to the controllers from the crank trigger through the firewall pass-throughs. These 15P couplers come pre soldered from the supplier. They are probably ok as is but I'm concerned that the long term vibration may cause the solder joints to break.

For those that have gone this route before... did you leave the wires soldered or bite the bullet and crimp on new d sub pins and replace the soldered on couplers with push ins? This looks like a "fun" coupler to crimp with the shielded-shared connections and close proximity.

would potting the soldered areas with E6000 glue to fix the terminals so they can't vibrate be a good option. 'lectric Bob seems to suggest this alot in his writings.

thanks,

jeff

[f1rocket]

I ended up coiling up the excess wire on the firewall side and left it the way it was. Soldered pins are not ideal but they will be fine as long as the wires are supported. A dab of E6000 would not hurt either. I then completed my wiring from the cockpit side through a smaller opening in the firewall and crimped on the other side of the D-sub.

After buying a crimping tool for d-sub pins, it is MUCH easier to crimp them than solder. However, you need all the right tools, pins, receptors, etc.

[AltonD]

Cut and crimped. This also allowed a smaller firewall penetration. AFM8 crimpers can be found on ebay pretty cheap. You will need the right positioner (K13). Stein has the pins. He also has the crimper and positioners, but new, they are quite expensive. I picked mine up for $85, positioner and crimper.

[Gonzo24]

Randy, Alton:

I do have the DMC crimp tool and positioner. fortunately I picked it off Ebay a few months ago for a good price for the many wiring tasks.

I appreciate your feedback. There were a few examples of guys crimping this same connector and the trials of doing so on a builder's sites I found after much searching this afternoon. Looks like I am going this route. Should be an adventure.

Originally Posted by AltonD

Cut and crimped. This also allowed a smaller firewall penetration. AFM8 crimpers can be found on ebay pretty cheap. You will need the right positioner (K13). Stein has the pins. He also has the crimper and positioners, but new, they are quite expensive. I picked mine up for $85, positioner and crimper.

[Walt]

I have dual LSI and left the connectors on (with the back shell off and the connector turned sideways it doesn't take a very big hole to get them through the FW) I have had absolutely no issues at all.

[elippse]

Originally Posted by Walt

I have dual LSI and left the connectors on (with the back shell off and the connector turned sideways it doesn't take a very big hole to get them through the FW) I have had absolutely no issues at all.

Good move!

[N130WN]

Mine are still soldered. I passed them through like this:

http://blog.bowenaero.com/?p=748

I'm expecting it to work fine...

[Gonzo24]

guys, this is a very good example of posting a question and getting excellent, specific feedback by folks that have been there..done that. thanks for your time to post your results. now we just need some good 'ol thread drift to make it official!

[f1rocket]

Which "drift" would you prefer? We could try any of the following:

1. "If you solder any of your wires your airplane will fall out of the sky"

2. "Why have electronic ignition, it doesn't save you anything"

3. "You should switch from LSE to (pick your ignition) because it is better"

I'm sure there's a dozen more. Chime in with your favorite drift topics that would fit for this thread.

[N941WR]

Originally Posted by f1rocket

I'm sure there's a dozen more. Chime in with your favorite drift topics that would fit for this thread.

It will work better with a primmed tip-up tail dragger with fuel injection and a CS Catto prop.