Wing root fairng

[Barnstormer]

Sup ya'll,
Does anyone have a better idea than the usual black rubber trim on RV6 wing fairing gaps?

Thanks
Pat

[N9331v]

Check out fairings etc.com


Ed

[caryr]

I left the rubber strip off completely.

I think is looks better without it.

[woodmanrog]

I had the fiberglas wingroot fairings on my first RV. I was advised to remove them as they had a lot of parasitic drag. I removed them and went to the standard setup and gained 8 knots. I know the rubber intersection piece can be a pain but it is still the best solution. You could always use duct tape.

[pierre smith]

It's pretty easy to cut them to fit snugly against the fuselage with no fairing, like my -10.

Best,

[Cadstat]

Originally Posted by woodmanrog

I had the fiberglas wingroot fairings on my first RV. I was advised to remove them as they had a lot of parasitic drag. I removed them and went to the standard setup and gained 8 knots. I know the rubber intersection piece can be a pain but it is still the best solution. You could always use duct tape.

I have the fairings on my wing roots on the 6A. They look great. I heard they slow you down. The gap is too large I think to go to the black rubber strip I've seen on other RVs. Does any one know what I might try? I can only get 170-2 MPH tops and I'd like to go faster. I'm a big fan of duct tape but not for this application.

[alcladrv]

Originally Posted by Barnstormer

Sup ya'll,
Does anyone have a better idea than the usual black rubber trim on RV6 wing fairing gaps?

Thanks
Pat

On my -7A, I trimmed the wing fairing to be 3/32" from the fuselage and, in over 6 years of flying 700 hrs., haven't any problems with the black rubber trim ("h" channel) staying in place, i.e. coming loose at either end and flapping against the airframe.

I guess some like the fairing look better, but my experience with the rubber trim has been without complaint. I had thought about increasing the 3/32" to and 1/8" or so, but replacing the rubber trim only costs $12 or $15, so I'll just replace when necessary.

Mike

[N208ET]

I am not sure if the gap was too tight or not, but the first time I tried to trim the aluminum I would take it to the scotchbrite wheel and clean it up afterwords. The last time I trimmed I didn't do that, my thinking was who cares if it is a little jagged, maybe it will help it hold, and it has, for the last 75 hours or so. YMMV.

Randy
8A

[Bob Axsom]

Originally Posted by Cadstat

I have the fairings on my wing roots on the 6A. They look great. I heard they slow you down. The gap is too large I think to go to the black rubber strip I've seen on other RVs. Does any one know what I might try? I can only get 170-2 MPH tops and I'd like to go faster. I'm a big fan of duct tape but not for this application.

I know you like speed from your previous posts. If the aluminum closure strip is too narrow because of the original installation, I would make new ones and seal it with the proper rubber strip. This assembly is one that requires a lot of constant attention and progressive work to get it right. Even then, in spite of what the conservative fliers tell you when you fly really fast and make a smooth but exhilarating zoom climb after crossing a finish line the upper aft end of the rubber will come out, no matter how tight it is jambed against the fuselage, and make you think you broke something as it swirls in a corkscrew fashion beating against everything in its reach. It needs to be glued in place with 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive after fitting and it will stay in place "forever." Areas like this are where some of the less carefully built clues show up, along with fairing fits or omissions, canopy details, etc. I am glad some one tried the big Spitfire fairings and reported the results as being slower - I wondered.

Bob Axsom