P-Mags and Auto Plugs: Two Questions

[RVadmirer]

Originally Posted by Ironflight

Thanks to everyone for the great inputs! this thread should add considerable knowledge to the archives - one good reason for asking questions.

Paul

........for the tip on pump wrench. Had no idea they made one I could copy!

On this plug issue I've read and followed advice to make a socket that grabs the adapter with flats ground on it so it can be held with a crescent while turning a smaller socket inside on the plug. Keeps the adapter in place and makes plug R&R easy.

Joe Dubner may have a good angle on bigger plugs. Gotta look into that. Sure seems to be the right solution but I don't know the whole heat range thing with a P-Mag.

Rocket Bob may have a good point on the anti-seize worth noting! Will look for his suggested stuff and dump my Champion stuff.....

[Bevan]

I have some BR8ES-11, with 7986 also stamped on the box. What does the 11 and 7986 mean? These do have a solid terminal.

The box also has a symbol indicating not for use on "hang gliders". Do the BR8EIX have the same symbol?

Bevan
RV7A Dual P-mags

[gasman]

If you apply anti-seize to the threads of a spark plug with an acid brush and paint it on like it was a very thin coating just enough to change the color of the threads instead of filling the threads with an over amount if anti-seize, You will not get the build up. And the plug comes out clean with clean cyl threads.

[videobobk]

Almost five years using Brad's E-Mag adapters and no problems. I use solid tips purchased locally and standard silver anti-seize, applied sparingly. I only attack the plugs, never the adapters except when I need to remove them to check compression. Sometime they come out with the plugs, sometimes not. Brad says never tighten the adapters and only torque the plugs, tightening the adapters at the same time, with no chance of breaking the adapters. Simple, no special tools, and it works.

Question on changing heat ranges; I have never had any issues with CHT or fouling, but can get high EGTs at some throttle settings. Could running a colder plug help here? Would it affect fuel burn?

Bob

[David-aviator]

I've thinking about P mags also. Spoke with the owners at OSH and came away with a very favorable impression.

With regard to the adaptors, how do you remove one from the cylinder head if it does not come out with the plug? Is there a hex head on the adaptor?

With regard to 1 or 2 P mags, is there a noticeable difference running with a single P mag and Slick vrs 2 P mags?

Thanks.

[Brantel]

Originally Posted by David-aviator

Is there a hex head on the adaptor?

With regard to 1 or 2 P mags, is there a noticeable difference running with a single P mag and Slick vrs 2 P mags?

Thanks.

Yes there the adaptors are hex on the od.

The most bang comes from the first P-mag but you will see some additional improvement when the second one is added or at least that is what they tell me.

[Toobuilder]

Originally Posted by videobobk

Question on changing heat ranges; I have never had any issues with CHT or fouling, but can get high EGTs at some throttle settings. Could running a colder plug help here? Would it affect fuel burn?...

Answers here:

http://ngksparkplugs.com/tech_suppor...x.asp?mode=nml

If you have no detonation and no fouling then you have met requirements.

"The spark plug firing end temperature must be kept low enough to prevent pre-ignition, but high enough to prevent fouling. This is called “Thermal Performance”, and is determined by the heat range selected."

[videobobk]

Originally Posted by David-aviator

With regard to 1 or 2 P mags, is there a noticeable difference running with a single P mag and Slick vrs 2 P mags?

Thanks.

I have operated all three ways; 2 Slicks, Slick/E-mag, E-Mag/P-Mag. Short story, adding one saved considerable fuel (~1 gph,) gave easier starting, not much increase in performance. Adding the second P-Mag saved a little fuel (maybe .1-.2 gph, not enough to notice,) allowed for much lower idle, improved idle smoothness, and gave about 4 mph increase at 8000'. The first one is the BIG difference! The second was great because I have a FP prop, and lowering the idle to 400 (static) gave better engine braking on final.

Bob

[Tandem46]

Originally Posted by Brantel

Put the adaptor on the plug, install the whole mess, torque the plug only and that will torque the adaptor at the same time.

PMAG may be different, but on the LSE site, the adapters get 25 ft-lbs of torque and the plugs only get 15 ft-lbs. Due to this, the LSE site says torque the adapter first, then insert and torque the plug. If you do them together, you'll only get 15 ft-lbs on the adapter. I've been doing it per LSE instructions each year for the last seven with no issues.

[Brantel]

EMag adaptors are different. The reason LSE wants you to torque them more is so they don't come out with the plug.

Do that to Emag adaptors and they most likely will break.