P-Mags and Auto Plugs: Two Questions

[Ironflight]

OK, so a couple of things have convinced me to try auto plugs in the new IO-320 with dual P-Mags. the first is that Brad at P-Mag convinced me that the ignition is happier (and designed for) the auto plugs, and the second is the mediocre (Brad's words) aircraft plug cap that P-Mag has for their ignition harness. I don't want to worry about washers falling out every time I disconnect a plug wire!

So for those with lots of experience using auto plugs:

1) I heat that there is a BR8-ES that has a "solid" connection end (versus the one that screws on and off), and that is desirable to ensure no accidental disconnects in flight. Is there a code for getting the right version? Part number suffix, etc?

2) What kind of socket do you use for installing them. The P-Mag instructions say to install the adapter on the plug, then screw the assembly into the cylinder. I found that when I tried using my regular aircraft plug socket on the adapter, the plug was too long, and the hex on the plug didn't line up right. So what do folks use?

Paul (looking forward to using up a leftover supply of BR8-ES's from my jet ski days....)

[gasman]

Paul, purchase your plug adapters from Lightspeed..... http://www.lightspeedengineering.com...Sparkplugs.htm for proven quality. Install them per Lightspeed instructions.

Purchase your NGK plugs locally so you can inspect the cap. After the adapter is installed, I just use a standard plug socket to remove just the plug. I never remove the adapter. AS far as a blow down test, they have adapters at NAPA that fit the smaller plug hole. Don't remove the adapters.

[RV7Guy]

Hey Paul,

First, as far as putting in the adapter. Purchase a "peanut plug," that is shorter. This will allow you install the adapter w/o distortion and problems. Use anti seize. I can get you the part number of the NGK's but I never had a problem with the plugs or the connectors.

[jbDC9]

www.sparkplugs.com shows that NGK has two different p/n's for their BR8ES plugs, 3961 and 5422. 3961 has the fixed terminal nut while the 5422 is removable... my experience at the local Auto Zone is they'll have one or the other, but not both, so when they bring out a box of BR8ES, check the smaller part numbers on the end of the box...

As for the install socket, while on the bench I screw the plug into the adaptor by hand, then use the smaller (NGK sized) plug socket to drive/torque the whole assembly into place. Seems to work okay for me.

[Brantel]

What John said...and the manual as well.

Put the adaptor on the plug, install the whole mess, torque the plug only and that will torque the adaptor at the same time.

Do not use a socket on the Emag adaptors or you may break them.

[pmnewlon]

I installed the NGK BR8ES #3961 with solid terminal post. I would recommend purchasing Brad's auto plug adapters. I've been hunting for the confirmation email from where I ordered the plugs but can't seem to find it at the moment. Seems like I paid just under $5 each for a pack of 10 including shipping.

Read the PMag installation manual:

Auto Spark Plug Adapters - Plug adapters permit the use of 14mm automotive type plugs with a ¾” reach. [Not suitable with engines that use long-reach (13/16”) aircraft plugs.] First, install adapters with the supplied gasket on the spark plugs finger tight. Then, insert the combined assembly in engine and tighten to 18 ft/lb (standard auto plug torque). Note 1: If you install and torque the adapters separately, stresses will be focused at the adapter neck and can cause it to fail during installation.

I coated the threads of the plugs and the adapters with Champion spark plug lube before installation. Brad was OK with my doing so. I am going to try running those until next annual then switch to the NGK BR8EIX Iridium and see if there is a difference in temps / fuel burn / plug life.

For what it's worth, after sitting for nearly seven months, my O320 fired on one or two blades with dual PMags, Brad's ignition harness, and NGK plugs in adapters from Brad.

http://www.ngk.com/more_info.asp?AAIA=&pid=2412 BR8ES with solid terminal nut, $2.89 each (NGK 3961)
http://www.ngk.com/more_info.asp?AAIA=&pid=3449 BR8EIX Iridium with solid terminal nut, $7.83 each (NGK 6747)

[tkatc]

I have first hand experience with the "screw tip" coming off and as a result delaying my departure. Had to uncowl to figure out the problem when a seriously rough running engine appeared during my mag check. As posted above, there are 2 different part numbers associated with screw on vs solid tips. I agree that purchased locally would be the better bet as you would only be saving maybe 50 cents per plug via the internet but would then pay shipping. As you have already figured out, DO NOT USE the screw on tips. I am running the NGK BR9ES without issue. (I understand that the 9 runs a little hotter but I am not really sure)

As far as the adapters, I am using the EMag adapters and YES they sometimes come off WITH the plug. I have read, as stated above, the lightspeed adapters are superior but I haven't used them. I am using a standard sparg plug socket for removal. I find the upper plugs to be easy while the lower plugs may require a swivel adapter for removal.

[fstringham7a]

Originally Posted by jbDC9

www.sparkplugs.com shows that NGK has two different p/n's for their BR8ES plugs, 3961 and 5422. 3961 has the fixed terminal nut while the 5422 is removable... my experience at the local Auto Zone is they'll have one or the other, but not both, so when they bring out a box of BR8ES, check the smaller part numbers on the end of the box...

As for the install socket, while on the bench I screw the plug into the adaptor by hand, then use the smaller (NGK sized) plug socket to drive/torque the whole assembly into place. Seems to work okay for me.

What John and the install manual says. It has been bullet proof for two years. Pmags / Brad are the best. I am not biased really !!!!!!!


Frank @ 1L8 ... RV7A ...

[rocketbob]

All you have to do is booger the thread up on the plug just a little bit to keep the tip from ever coming off. I just take a pair of side cutters and mash down slightly on a thread or two towards the bottom, then screw on the tip. When it gets to the boogered up section of the thread, put the tip in your soft jaw vise. Using your plug wrench turn it down the rest of the way.

About the worst **** you could put on spark plug threads is the Champion black stuff. It is graphite based so once it drys it leaves a nice coating inside the helicoils that builds up and eventually have to be cleaned out...why do you think Champion sells such a tool to do that. Best to use a nickel-based antiseize.

[SMO]

.......personally check the auto plug wires are installed properly every time. During my last annual I enlisted help from the local AME, and did not check the plug wires. One fell off in flight - either not pushed on all the way or a little pressurized air was left in the boot when installed.